This might not be the best place to ask but I'm really stuck. Here's kitchen so far:
Units will be gloss white (already bought and assembled).
Cannot figure out what worktop colour/pattern to buy.
So far my choices are marble effect grey laminate or dark walnut/grey walnut brown.
What...
I think he just qualified and got a mate to stamp a logo on his van. Looks like all the videos are filmed at his own home but he probably does have a couple customers AKA neighbours on either side.
Also gotta disagree with sparkwright about showing the wiring... too many YT videos show how to...
Can't you just tile it with non-slip porcelain kitchen tiles and external adhesive/grout over SBR primer? Should set you back about £150 with Wickes sales.
Even my next door neighbour's cat possessed the relevant skills needed to complete this task before it died due to an electric shock.
You can do it, just remember to safely isolate at the consumer unit (cat couldn't reach it).
I ended up wedging a galvanized steel bead between the top wall and plastic trim then plastering to it.
For the right hand side I just plastered to the plastic trim and used a sponge to blend/curve the plaster into the trim.
Looks pretty good.
Tiles not adhered yet. Both floors same height. I left space for expansion gap but am wondering which threshold to use. Was thinking just a standard flat gold one and screwing it to the sub floor at the gap between both floors... then packing the space with cork unless there's a better idea...
Drill an 8mm hole, hammer in a 9mm wooden dowel, cut wooden dowel flush with wall with a hand saw/multi-tool, then screw one of these into wooden dowel:
If an 8mm hole is too much then just downsize i.e. 5mm hole + 6mm wooden dowel.
Sounds good, but if I add a DP switch it will be to the right of the consumer unit (lots of space there). From thereon the cables will go up into the ceiling.
The 3a FCU for the lights is also likely to be next to the DP switch... from which 2 cables will go out into the ceiling - one for the...
The cooker circuit is buried but doesn't have RCD protection. I guess it only applies to newly installed circuits/cables. Outdoor circuit will not be buried.
I just drew it that way to avoid confusion with you guys thinking it was terminated in the back box socket... but introduced a different type of confusion with people thinking it goes around!
OK so here's a picture of my CU:
I did some examination of the "power down" circuit and found a spur from the MCB going to the television double socket on 2.5mm cable (marked it with a black line above).
I added another spur from this to the other side of the wall (kitchen) for a fridge...
Don't really want to be bumping this thread but don't want to create a new thread about this either...
Can someone tell me if it's OK to "bypass" a socket with cable within a back box like this:
So 2.5mm on the right drops from a ring but bypasses the first socket within the back box and...
Not a pro at this so not really sure what to do here:
Wall needs plastering obviously but there is a square trim around the door. If I plaster this wall what do I do when I get to this trim?
Normal angle bead won't work here. Not even sure if I should use any type of beading. If I plaster...
Started cutting the chases until my Henry hoover cut out (overheat - hopefully will start working again when cooled):
And as I was chiseling the top single socket I found this:
Why on earth is there a curved metal pipe there? Or is it some type of reinforcement? Either way lucky it...
I didn't get to cut those chases yet, because there's always an obstruction :(
BTW the above pic would involve buying a roll of 4mm cable just for 3 meters when I already got 6mm and 2.5mm on hand.
So I cut out a bit of the ceiling to find this:
Massive pieces of wood in the way...
1st spur is the double socket, 2nd spur is the single socket at the bottom. CCU is to the left of the hob.
That was my first ever plastering attempt and I was proper psyched after watching hours of YT videos on it. Decided to try on a wall that was eventually going to be hidden and it's come...
OK I'm back with an updated design lol
Really want to cut the chases in tomorrow as I don't want to dusty up the room after the tiles have been fitted.
I've been told by my gasman that a gas hob will require a socket (for protection as well as ignition) so decided on adding 2 at the floor...