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I'm not sure. The roof is newer than the stove/chimney. I assume the roofer would have put the correct stuff up... could you explain a bit more about where this red slate would be seen? Isn't the slate the bit on the slope of the roof, underneath the lead?

I certainly hope so. I got the official building regs form thingy when he installed the stove. Is there something in the photo that makes you doubt it?

And here it is... :D

Oh. Hmm, I think he has ordered the lead to be made up now... I suppose I could try and get him to cancel it. Hmm. If I wanted to remove the lead later couldn't we just break the seal and lift the lead over the top of the chimney again, the same way he got it on?

Looks like you're right! I had misunderstood him. The lead is welded into a shape so it forms a sleeve round the chimney, then he'll use lead sealant to make a seal between that and the SS.

The twit who fitted our wood burning stove cut the rubber boot too slack, so there is a few mm gap round it and rain comes down the side and into the house. I've asked the roofer who is working on the house to change it for a new one. He has suggested he could make up a lead flashing kit...

It is a very large space and eventually will be divided into 2 rooms and a hallway. So I can't really add the plasterboard before I put in all the internal walls. Yes I know I could do that too, but I have to stop somewhere and the money has run out! Plus I want another layer of insulation...

Great, thanks. I have ordered some!

Interesting. Do you mean these: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Construction+Materials/Insulation/Celotex+Plastic+Rafter+Clip/d210/sd2738/p44294?

Good point. Eventually we will plasterboard it, but it may stay as it is for a few years, until we have the money to finish it into a living space. So really I need a solution that is fairly robust, as it will need to stay in place for a good while before the plasterboard is added.

We have a very large loft space that I've floored out and have cut 70mm celotex to fit between the rafters, with 50mm breathing space (we also have new breathable felt). At first I thought the boards would just stay in place, but I guess the drop in temperature is affecting the wooden rafters...

I rang the Building Inspectors and they said a dry ridge is not required for the roof, although they would recommend getting one anyway, for maintenance reasons. I asked my roofer about it and he reckons a wet ridge is fine. He said as long as you take care to get exactly the right cement...

We're currently in the middle of our fairly large refurbishment project which involves converting the loft of our bungalow. We've decided we need to get a new roof – the old tiles are over 90 years old and many becoming porous. Plus it has old, non-breathable felt and some of the batten...

Thanks Catlad, I'm aware of the difference between clay and concrete. My question here is about the difference between these 2 models of clay tiles, the Modula one and the Bridgewater one. I'm trying to understand why the Bridgewater one is twice the price.

Just checked - the £3 tile is a Sandtoft Bridgewater (http://www.sandtoft.com/our-products/natural-clay-range/roman-tiles/bridgwater/product/). Not sure what the difference is but they seem to be made the UK.

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We're about to get our large bungalow roof completely re-done with new felt and battens and new tiles. We need about 1500 tiles. I prefer clay to the concrete tiles and the roofer bought round a couple of samples of clay tiles, one costing £3 each and one for £1.50 each, which were Koramic...

We're about to fit this engineered wood flooring (http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/flooring/wood-laminate-flooring/real_wood_top_layer/-specificproducttype-oak/B-and-Q-Real-Wood-Oak-Flooring-Life-Bevel-Brushed-1-05Sqm-9586562) in our entrance hall and 2 downstairs rooms. Managed to order a whole lot...