Search results

As said above, you electrics should conform to Part P and this work is notifiable. I don't think you can tile over that choc block, i think the only way you may get around that connection is to crimp the cables and insulate but i'm not 100%. Definately post this on the electrics forum as...

Cheers pal - i may well look into doing it myself then. It's just the fear of starting it and not being able to finish it and not having any water etc!

Cheers for the replies chaps!! No, there was no such plate fitted at all. I can't really afford to replace the tank but may have to bite the bullet. Does anybody know roughly how much this will cost (parts and labour) - i'm not confident enought to do it myself.

Alright chaps, The float valve in my cold water storage tank is constantly dripping. I want to replace it with a new one. However, the hole where the float valve passes through the tank has a small crack running to the rim of the tank (about 4 inches). My plan was to replace the float valve...

Chaps, I had a new electric shower refitted last year. The old shower was a 7.5kw Triton and i replaced it with a newer 7.5kw triton. The old 6mm cable was used but a new 45amp shower pull cord was fitted. The fuse box was updated at the time also. All work was carried out by a electrician...

As said above - you'll need to remove the old grout and start again. You can by a tool for removing grout in DIY stores. But, you said that one of the tiles has come loose - this suggests that there may be movement in the floor. Did he tile straight onto floorboards or not use a sufficient base?

Cant the height of the bath be adjusted to reduce that gap? if not then you can go down the road of the sealing strips but i'd rather use silicon. i'm sure somebody else has a better opinion on here though...

is it a connector that slots into the bowl and has 'fins' on the section that slides into the bowl? If so i put a bit of silicone on the exterior fin where it meets the bowl (if that makes sense?)

Ideally it still should be fitted to a level surface but if thats not an option at least make sure the surface you are fitting to is completely flat and that the tray is fixed and supported evenly.

The tray should be level, you'll have a hell of a job trying to bit the enlosure if its not. Are you fitting the tray directly onto the floorboards/ply? If so have you got room for the waste? I sat my tray up on a plinth to give me room underneath for the waste - if you did the same you could...

Theres a sticky by Gcol on this forum. Have a read because he explains what you are asking in there. From memory though i think he suggests 25mm ply.

I build a timber frame and secured the panel to the frame with strong velcro. Its spot on - hold it well and easy to remove if needed.

Yeah, you can get them - i've used these many times without an probs. You can get either 2 x 25mm to go on either valve or one 50mm to make up the difference you require. Go to a plumbing shop to get them.

Its for the overflow. If you look at your sink waste hole you'll see that the over flow channels will direct water towards these holes if the sink over flows.

Is it new? Is it an MDF panel? Mine warped where it was stood upright for so long but i just layed it out on the floor flat with some weight on overnight and that sorted it

Thats odd thats it not level. Mine was spot on. If its sloping downwards then the only thing to do is to maybe fill the gap with silicon - but filling a 7mm gap with silicon will be hard

If it was me i'd take the sealant off and start again

The aluminium rail you refer to should sit fluch with the tray. The vertical parts of the cubical should be adjustable to stop the uneven walls "pulling up" the orbit from the tray. The cubical will be seals to the tray on the outhide edge but this shouldnt be used an as adhesive as well, the...

Mine is routed in the shape of a question mark over a short space and have no problems with it at all. Buy it from a plumbers merchant as i had to take one from B&Q back as it leaked and the one from Wickes was poor quality.

You can replace the plasterboard with plasterboard but that'll need tanking as its in a shower cubical. This will make the new platerboard resistant to water. Ideally though you can use aqua panel or (and it may cause a few arguments on here) aqua panel with a tanking product - although the...