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The fridge door was inadvertently left open overnight & now won't cool. I tried to remove the panel on the back wall of the freezer to check for ice build-up but the law of sod decrees that one of the screws just turns without undoing. Short of taking a chisel to the lug where the screw sits &...

Space is pretty much non-existent, which is why it's like it is I guess. As well as tidying I was hoping to improve the flow as it's quite prone to blocking. I'm guessing having the 90° waste pipe fitted at an angle certainly isn't helping. Not sure how well it comes across in the pic but the WC...

I could do with some help on waste fittings please. I need to remove the pan to decorate & hopefully tidy what looks like a bit of a bodge job. Hopefully here's a pic of three issues: First is the joint in the soil pipe to the left. What is this type of joint & can it be easily broken &...

Nope, seven! I've just spoken to Fluidmaster (courtesy of this old thread) & they're still sending out "prototype" parts for this problem. [email protected]

PCB arrived this morning (thanks to Andy at ApplianceHelp) & normal service has been resumed. So I've saved myself £80+ on Hoover's repair charge & got back up & running before they could have come out anyway. :D Just wish I'd trusted my instincts & bought the PCB in the first place! :roll...

Already done that & it looks completely clean. I've done the deed now so we'll see what happens... I'll report back.

Thanks Dev. From what I've read the thermistor is "foamed in" (no idea where) & a bugger to change. I guess I should be able to see some change by placing a bowl of hot water in the fridge while measuring the resistance? Edit - Just pulled it down again & it read around 6.8k initially &...

Made a little more progress. Got access to the controller & there's no sign of any damage or bulging caps & no dry joints on the PCB. Can anyone suggest some more diags to isolate the problem? On the spares list there is a "fridge sensor" with two wires & a "thermal fuse" with four. I'm...

Further to my other thread I'm reasonably confident that the controller is at fault. I was going to do the sensible thing & get it done by Hoover under their fixed price repair scheme but they can't come out for nearly a week. So I may have to be brave & tackle it myself. Just wondering if...

Appreciate the help but that appears to be a trade only supplier, with no access for non-account holders. Can't see it being an issue with the defrost sensor as presumably that just tells the heater when to turn on?

Amazingly I found the receipt. It's a HNMF2805A from 2006, so not a bad guess. Control module looks to be £60 which isn't too bad. I can't see a stat listed separately so guess that's part of the module. So, take a chance that £60 will fix it, assuming I can find an online resource to show me...

I think the stat's just mechanical. It's a dial that sits in the top panel between the two LEDs for "on" & "super". It's obscured when the door is closed but is external. Edit - the temp control is linked to a pot on the main controller so not mechanical. I'll have a hunt for the receipt...

Just played a bit more as the compressor had kicked back in. The 'stat is number 0-4 plus a "super" setting at what would be 5. If I set it to the max & then back it off slowly, the compressor cuts fairly consistently at around 4.5. This seems to suggest that the 'stat is working & correctly...

Firstly, thanks for taking the time to reply. Yes, there is ice on the back wall of the fridge. I've just pulled a couple of drawers & can feel a strong flow of cold air being blown through the vents at the back of the freezer, so I presume the fan is functioning OK. I've just turned...

This is a Hoover branded frost-free fridge/freezer. I can't get at the back easily for the model number (why can't they put labels inside?). Edit - They do put labels inside but hide them with the saled draw! It's an HNMF 2805A so thread title amended. It's approx eight years old & as far...

Hopefully someone can assist my with my quest for a replacement terminal guard. It's for an oil burner & the flue is 5" diameter & protrudes from the wall 7.5" (125mm x 195mm). The current square guards I've used just don't last as they quickly rust through so I'm looking for a stainless or...

Thanks again. Given that I should rip it up to lay a DPM, would you recommend replacing the foam with boards? I can probably get my hands on a 2m level to check the floor while I'm at it but I'm fairly sure it's OK.

Floor is pretty level. I admit to not going over it with a spirit level but the tiles seemed pretty flat. No obvious movement in the floor when walked on. No DPM as I was lead to believe that this wasn't necessary. House is 40 years old I would have thought that the tiles would act as a DPM...

I laid a Balterio ClickXpress laminate floor around six months ago & it's started to "crack" when walked on. It didn't so this initially but is slowly getting worse. It's all over the floor, not in one point. Room is approx. 18' x 12'. It was installed onto pre-existing thermoplastic tiles on...

Thanks for that. It's a similar thing but single purpose. I would be a little more confident if the profile could be lightly clipped into the runner to ensure the correct position. But it's an extremely tight fit & the piece I tried to practise with started to disintegrate due to the amount...