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How do I measure and mark the equilateral triangle from the base of a timber fix point at the wall ?

I'm asking about the angle to the wall being 90 degrees?

How do you make sure that a stud wall you build out from an existing wall is perfectly perpendicular to it ? I use a laser level which gives me perfect plumb lines but what it can't tell me is if the line itself is 90 degrees to the wall? So I can build a stud but always at a slightly angle...

Thanks all

Not a problem, I have an 18mm tile bit.. Wall is 8mm tile + 3mm adhesive behind + 18mm wbp ply, then a cavity Here is a picture of the fixing that came with the basin. It is screw thread one end and metric thread the other. Toggles look to work with metric thread but will they work with...

This is a problem as the wall plugs 10x50s are for solid wall construction and I can't find anything this size for cavity walls It's to late to fit supporting stud work behind as it has already been tiled Any suggestions ?

Adam, lastly, how long do I need to wait after applying the grout before using the shower? And, do I need to use waterproof paint for the shower room ceilings? I plan on using dulux matt white

Thanks for the heads up. It was to late for me to rip out and replace the ply so next time I'm going to use hardibacker or marmox as you suggested - just to clarify is hardibacker/marmox to be used for the whole of a bathroom or just the shower/bath areas ? My worry about buying and mixing...

Also can you clarify for me : Flexible grout on floors ONLY ? Non-flexible grout on walls ?

Adam I have similar questions, all my walls and floor are 12mm ply. I was going to buy mapei wall and floor flexible grout and do the whole lot with this. I don't really want to mix the stuff, can you recommend a ready mixed grout, or are they not very good ?

Thanks guys I used pretty much all your methods, flipping the tile, measure, etc, it was a confidence issue with me, once I did the first two I did the rest easily. Adam I use a TileMate bought years ago from toppstiles. Also I'm sure an angle grinder with diamond blade where necessary :)...

Tile = 8mm Ceramic 400x300 Ceiling is not flat, probably tapers from one end to the other difference by about 40mm I guess I can put it in the cutter, but how do I hold it steady so that I can scribe? These tile cutters only seem to work for perfectly straight cuts only

So just measure the length on each side and then mark it onto the tile? Do I leave room for expansion at the top? What's the best way to cut tapered lengths? I use a normal tile cutter with the level I pull down to snap the tile, do I need any special equipment? The tile cutter I have only works...

Thanks for the tips Adam. In my situation I constructed a shower room no bigger than around 6m2 floor area which includes a shower, basin and toilet. The cost of ply though is staggering, it really is. I think I paid going on £35 or thereabout, for one sheet of 8x4 and not knowing any better...

I'm in the process of doing my first shower and I used 12mm ply and I applied two coats of BAL waterproofer beforehand. Shower tanking kits are very dear, there is Aquaseal waterproofer which I've seen is good and around £20 but I couldn't find anything in the main shops and merchants that...

Simple question for anyone that knows, how do you scribe and cut the last ceiling tile that butts the ceiling ?

Thanks mate now I know. I just want to know if I should have put cement under the tray or whether or not it was alright sitting on the ply? It's a stone tray

Here's the ******* It's level diagonally one way and out by 6mm the other. I didn't have the heart to go at it any longer, as the cement was drying along with my soul Look at this ****ing huge gash I've taken out of the ply to allow for the plastic nut and pipe. So that now is...