Search results

if one of the dials isn't returned to 12 o'clock it allows the cold and hot to mix = lukewarm hot tap in kitchen, running bath etc :cry:

Not without a LOT of hassle and work. Its one of these incidentally: Untitled by rarara posted 26 Feb 2015 at 12:09 PM I suppose the easiest options would be if i could find either: a) a 90 degree connector similar to the tap one illustrated, but that fitted properly on the 1/2 inch thread of...

the body of the mixer has hot and cold flexible hoses that are 1/2 inch which currently attach to the wall elbows. I need the check valve between those (now too late to fit it before the shower) on the cold supply

Hi, I have a shower mixer which doesn't have an inbuilt check valve and I was planning to add one in the space behind the body of the unit. Right now the way it is configured is this is attached to the 15mm cold feed and so the threaded end pokes out of the wall: The showers flexi hose...

Needed to get one today and limited places near my work, but B&Q had a macallister for £54. seems fine, especially since it says 3 year guarantee.

argh - there weren't any. i think though i need to get a bit more leeway, depending on where i will attach the joint, so wanted about 6 inches or so protected

recently installed a CC toilet and its the 2nd time where the supplied fittings were rotten and leaked. got a set of metal screws with triangular rubber washers, as well as new large rubber washer (all from toolstation, so about a fiver in total) and they resolved the issue. now, next time I buy...

Need to pass some 15mm along behind skirting, under floor etc so in some bits it will be need a good push against brickwork etc. I want to make sure there is no damage/scratches that might cause a poor joint. Whats the best way of protecting it?? I could use some duct tape over the first 6...

Had my Bosch oscillating multi tool for 5+ years and worth its weight in gold, but finally killed its motor cutting through hardwood floorboards :cry: Need to buy a new one, and there now seems to be a large choice. So, a few questions are.... 1) How do Worx, JCB, Macalister, Draper etc stack...

argh - found out last night that despite the joists all running the correct way i quite quickly hit an obstacle :cry:. am hoping it is just a cross brace and since its close enough to my starting point I can cut through a board and make a few notches, then it will all be clear after that...

sage advice - was planning to tape-up the parts likely to be connecting. think i will try and borrow a cable rod set and first see how easy it is to travel the distance, and possibly use string to help depending on how easy/difficult - with layflat being possibly the best of a bad bunch.

argh - that's a bit of a pain as I also have to feed the pipe behind some skirting then back out to the new rad so 6.5m or a bit more in total. was hoping to do most in continuous pipe to lessen any hidden joints. the layflat also looked like it could be bent round things quite easily - surely...

Adding a new rad. and to potentially avoid lifting most of a living room hardwood floor + boards I think that I can feed the new 15mm pipes the 5 metres they need to go. Will be going parallel to the joists, so no worries about hitting anything solid - the only (hopefully :unsure:) tricky bit...

i have the same issue with mine. any idea of the cost of both a service and replacing the pressure vessel if that is the issue? also, if it is the pressure vessel does this need fixing quickly before the whole thing stops working or can it limp along in its current state for a while?

Hi, Painted my wooden front door and storm doors with oil based satin paint. Does to it being a mixture of panels and decorative parts I used both a brush and a foam roller. Some parts are shinier than others - do I really need to do all of the final coat with a brush to get consistent results?

can i ask why an acrylic primer if the stuff going on top is oil based? also, is the primer and undercoat you suggest a specific floor version? (previously primed and painted pine, but can't remember what primer i used :rolleyes:)

yes, thats correct - standard cold supply and hot from the boiler. i think the mixer itself is just missing any kind of check valve. not an issue as long as we turn off both handles after using the shower, otherwise the hot tap can be a bit cooler than usual :mad:

would this work?: http://www.screwfix.com/p/non-return-shower-check-valve/71542 is it 1/2" male on one side and female on the other?

it just doesn't look good within the room itself, when alongside our furniture, fire surround etc - its quite dated looking

I have a shower mixer that is connected to the hot and cold supply which are both 1/2" male fittings by way of flexi-hoses. Hopefully this explains better that I can: Untitled by rarara posted 26 Feb 2015 at 12:09 PM Problem being is that when it is left open it allows the hot and cold to mix...