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I am planning to hire a nailer to fix some 20mm maple onto the subfloor of original 20mm floorboards. There seem to be 2 lengths of nail available - 38mm and 50mm. If these things fire in at 45 degree angle at the top of the tongue, are the 50mm nails going to protrude through the subfloor in...

I am wanting to repaint my wooden double storm door (tenement flat, so not outside and exposed to the elements if it makes any difference). Right now it is black gloss, and I am either going to keep that colour or choose a less shiny grey. Presumably I need to give the door a light sanding...

unfortunately that seems to be purely aimed at stoves, rather than inset fires, and has no mention of concrete either :cry:

I am going to get a cast iron insert installed to replace our very visually unappealing fireplace. This will also have a wooden surround which I have already sourced. It may utilise a gas burner, or we might just leave it as solid fuel (it is primarily decorative). What I am a bit confused about...

that sounds like potentially a decent haul at that price! any idea of the weight of lead in a tea-chest sort of sized tank?? i tried to calculate at say 5 sides each a metre-square, and say 3mm thick but wasn't certain of the mass-per-metre-cubed also, whats the scrap value of a copper...

double post :cautious:

hi tony - thats what i thought, as from my googling any asbestos in tanks were not lining but the whole tank. luckily it looks like the resin isn't really bonded to the lead so should just break off. is a circular saw not a bit OTT for some lead?

Hi, Ages ago I drained a lead water tank in our loft and capped its cold supply. The tank didn't supply anything, but had a live feed and must have been like that for 30 years or more. I am now going to remove it to make some space, sell the lead etc. I have a few questions though..... 1) It...

a gas fire basket doesn't sound like a high efficiency model (ie glass fronted) which is what I am looking for. i am fed up with most of the heat going up the chimney when on, or a big open hole allowing cold air in when it is off. in a previous property we fitted a wall mounted gas fire which...

Am looking to replace our existing gas fire with something a bit more efficient, so am thinking of an HE model, but have a couple of questions.... 1) If I buy a cast iron surround (either new or antique) will they all be suitable, providing I get a correctly sized fire? Or are there only a...

Are there any other brands to look for? Bit of stray gas never hurt anyone :whistle:. I presume the existing thermostat lifts out and any new unit drops in quite easily? What would be a rough cost to get this bit done by my plumber?

probably, but I was wanting to avoid something like that as is a) expensive and b) probably overkill. just looking for something cheap and reliable

Hi, I have a WB Greenstar W30si MK IV installed 2013, and the control panel has a mechanical timer, and on-off switch. Unfortunately it is in the kitchen at the far side of the flat, and I would like a thermostat/timer/switch nearer the living room. Can anyone recommend a compatible and...

Good advice - thanks. What I have realised however is that where the (slightly deeper so as the FF is flush at the front) worktop run will begin just to the left of whatever I construct will probably be too deep for any end panels that seem to be available. Most kitchen supplier give end panels...

try this for an example...http://ao.com/life/home/how-to/design-kitchen-around-american-fridge-freezer/

I think they do as my existing kitchen illustrates. Google in-built fridge and you will see plenty. I had a look at some other fridges yesterday and they are all 91cm wide - I presume that I would need a 1m wide bridging unit leaving small gaps at either side. The existing kitchen achieves a...

Am redesigning the kitchen of our new place and having a bit of a mare working with the large fridge freezer we have been left. Its about 900mm wide and 1700mm high. Right now it has a 2300mm high cabinet at one side, another tall cabinet at the other and a few shelves between these cabinets...

should pilots be drilled, screws used or should it be face nailed/screwed instead? the data sheet for the timber suggests screws to the tongue, but the suppliers confirmed nails would be fine

any idea what nails/pins though for 20mm pine and/or maple?? Do they fire in at 45 degrees? If so, then I think 50mm would give a depth of approx 40mm, so would be through the board and through the sub-boards with a tiny bit to spare - does that seem OK?

I searched for new boards which are dried to a lower MC, so I am expecting any shrinkage to be with acceptable limits. Are floorboard cramps not attched to the joists, so not an option for me? New on top of old as I am looking for the extra sound insulation provided by both layers of boards (as...