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Thanks for your reply Sorry, I should have said - yes, it's a combi system. I haven't bought the shower valve or the shower head yet, I thought it best to do a bit of research and get whatever is likely to give me the best job rather than components that lead to a problem when installing...

Hi I am re-fitting my en-suite which currently has an electric shower, but intend to fit a concealed mixer shower with the shower head ceiling mounted. I intend to run the hot and cold feed from the existing basin up into the loft space and down the stud where the shower will be sited, so...

Hi Guys My controller has stopped displaying any information on the screen - it still switches the boiler on/off, and the backlight still comes on when a button is pressed, it's just that the actual display has no information It happened about a week ago and I changed the batteries - this...

Thanks everyone - I am aware that your advice is aimed at making sure I've considered all aspects of the job. Any further advice on washers etc... as I've found the supplied kits are sometimes not great for securing taps and preventing twisting

I have to add isolating valves anyway as the installing plumber didn't fit them, so no great trouble in making them 22mm connectors. The appearance is an issue, but not as much as taps that spray water all over the shelf part of the basin. In pure plumbing/technical terms, is it OK to fit...

I need a reach of over 100mm and can't find any basin taps (even the few long reach variants) that go that far

I think 3/4 BSP is about 26-27mm metric outside diamater and the holes in the body of the basin are over 30mm, so I should be OK. I'm not sure when you mention "tails" if you were thinking it's a mixer - either way, its a hot and cold separate tap that I require.

Hi Guys My current basin taps have a reach that only just puts the spout over the basin, so I'd like to replace with bath taps to get a longer reach. Basically, is it OK to do this - I intend to fit 15mm to 3/4 BSP braided flexible pipes to cope with the different size thread on the taps...

Hold that thought - I've just told my wife I have to isolate the heating, I hadn't said anything to her about it before because she would worry about it... Anyway, she's told me about a drip from the downstairs WC radiator which she dries up pretty much every day (I was blissfully unaware)...

Haven't noticed anything at all in terms of damp patches or drips, but it's only losing a small amount (I think). When the problem first presented itself last Tuesday, the small square fitting used to refill the boiler, once the filling key is inserted and unlocked, had a slight drip, so I...

Thanks to both of you - I'm happy to isolate the CH (I assume it's only turning a the screw half a turn to close off the fitting, same as a standard fitting at the WC or other isolator etc...) as no-one will be able to detect whether this has been done or not. At least then I'll know if it's...

I had a 37CDi installed in October last year and it's worked well until last week. We awoke in the morning to find the DHW not coming through the taps and it turned out the boiler pressure had dropped to zero. I refilled the boiler up to 1 bar and everything was OK. Since then, it has dropped...

Thanks guys since the link provided has been removed, perhaps you could direct me to whether I should use a surface sealer or one that impregnates the stone. Presumably it is best to pre seal them with the same product I intend to use longer term for sealing

Thanks guys all hunky dory with new controller - both your help has been invaluable

All done! Checked the Honeywell and it was rated 12-240V so figured it was OK. Everything seems to be working fine and also installed a new fused spur for the boiler (original hadn't been re-instated) and proper junction boxes for the extended wiring, both mains and controller. Thankyou...

Sorry to bother you again chaps I was about to do the job of changing controllers this morning and decided to do a bit of checking first. It seems that the controller does indeed switch between the COM and Lr (normally open) but it seems to switch 240V rather than the low voltage I had...

Thanks BGE - I'd already checked back to your original reply and realised you were on the money. My confusion lay in my not knowing how the existing Danfoss connections related to the Ls and Lr at the boiler, due to the cable run being extended. Your first post meant this didn't matter - it was...

Thankyou - you're a gent

Thankyou once again - I'm very grateful. My (hopefully) last question then: Would you be able to confirm the connections in terms of the Honeywell A, B and C terminals based on how the Danfoss was wired. I completely understand everything you've said, but can't get under the floor to...

Thanks guys - I could be wrong but there seems to be a difference of opinion, basically on polarity of live and neutral. BGEngineer suggests that the Honeywell terminal A is COM (neutral I assume) while D_Hailsham suggests this same terminal is Ls (which I assume to be constant live, looking...