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  1. H

    Central heating not circulating - even after pump replacement

    Yeah, I suspect the system was designed with a pump as a bleed point? I'm thinking it might be worth adding a bleed valve to the boiler pipework if I next do any work on it - though I'm not sure where I'd squeeze it in. Replacing the pump with something that cant be manually bled just causes a...
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    Central heating not circulating - even after pump replacement

    Phew! Got it working. Thanks for all the help. Ended up replacing the pump with a Wilo unit. Have to say, diagnosing issues with it is much easier. It has a button to enter venting mode, but also has two super useful things - A flow rate readout (impressed it's not just calculated from the...
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    Central heating not circulating - even after pump replacement

    Okay, seems like that's actually normal to have the cold water feed enter to the boiler out, before the pump: https://www.aphc.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/UNDERSTANDING-CENTRAL-HEATING-SYSTEMS-Dec13.pdf Seems to me pipe 1 is the cold water feed, and pipe 2 is the vent pipe, both going to...
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    Central heating not circulating - even after pump replacement

    Removed some of the expanding foam to have a look at the thin pipe (1) and see if it joins anything else - but it just angles left and goes into the wall. I wonder if this could be the cold water feed from the loft? That seems to be the only 16mm pipe - but that doesn't seem to make sense with 3...
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    Central heating not circulating - even after pump replacement

    Here's the UPS3 close-up. I've mostly been attempting it on the fixed speed setting at max (the old Grundfos was a constant speed and set to "3"). I did try switching it to constant pressure modes for a bit, but it didn't seem to change anything. The centre screw seems to push in a bit and...
  6. H

    Central heating not circulating - even after pump replacement

    Not really. Temp on the inlet of the pump (left) is ~ 47C (too hot to touch) Temp on outlet of the pump (right) is ~40C (bit hot) Temp at the open HW mechanical valve (right most valve, removed in pic) ~24C (slightly warm) Temp at the open CH mechanical valve (centre/left, removed in the pic)...
  7. H

    Grundfos UPS3

    Did you ever resolve this? Having the exact same issue with a Grundfos UPS3 replacing an old pump. Thing just doesn't seem to circulate any water. All the valves are open.
  8. H

    Central heating not circulating - even after pump replacement

    Pump valves were replaced, and I checked they were working before fitting - they're definitely fully open (screwed out). Both motorised valves are manually set to open (this is the second set I've fitted, and they're Danfoss ones that have the removable head, so I can twist the spindle and see...
  9. H

    Central heating not circulating - even after pump replacement

    Had a few issues with our central heating system. A valve was getting stuck on, and the pump was getting increasingly noisy. It finally packed in and we lost hot water. Simple job, I figured - replace the pump, might as well replace the valves while I'm at it. Had a load of trouble though. The...
  10. H

    Replacing a Danfoss HPA2 (4 wire??) motorised valve

    Happened again. The motor doesn't move the manual override lever, so no idea how it's getting stuck like this: I hadn't seen you could buy just the body (I knew you could buy just the head, as that seems a common repair!) - not sure it would be worth the cost saving for the peace of mind of...
  11. H

    Replacing a Danfoss HPA2 (4 wire??) motorised valve

    Hi, Our heating got stuck "on" - the thermostat was off, even switching it to off at the controller stop the heating. Seems this can be one of the motorised valves being stuck open. This seemed to be the case, I checked the valves and the CH valve was in the manual override position (the...
  12. H

    Insulated slab joining with EWI

    I was wondering if my plan for DPM is sensible. The rendering will cover the external wall insulation, and I'll just take that down to ground level. There's no point covering the insulation below ground level, right? I've been considering raising the slab a bit, so if there is a gap between the...
  13. H

    Insulated slab joining with EWI

    I've got 120m of rebar to reinforce. But no, hadn't considered the thickened edge. Was going to just do a floating raft like this: https://www.greenraft.co.uk/ But from reading, you're right I really should have a thickened edge. I was planning on 150mm thickness for the slab, seems 300mm...
  14. H

    Insulated slab joining with EWI

    I'm just ordering for building an insulated slab foundation for a garage/workshop. My plan is to lay XPS insulation in the slab and have it join to form continuous insulation with external wall insulation. I'm just wondering whether it would be best to build an insulated form for pouring the...
  15. H

    Applied osmo hardwax oil on too thick?

    After spending many weekends laying and sanding a parquet floor I brushed on some osmo hardwax oil last night before bed, hoping to come down to a glorious finish this morning! Sadly, I'm really disapointed in the finish. It's patchy, and full of grey/white streaks. After doing a bit of...
  16. H

    Options for laying over uneven flooring

    We replaced one really dodgy joist and an area of floorboards.
  17. H

    Options for laying over uneven flooring

    No idea if this is good or bad: Looks like the big that's raised up is only one side of the joist
  18. H

    Options for laying over uneven flooring

    Yeah, next weekend I'm going to pull the rest of the board up and hopefully see the ends of the joist, and try work out if I can plane it. Floor seemed sound - only one board squeeks in a different location where some board had been replaced. There's no noticeable movement in this location, but...
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    Options for laying over uneven flooring

    Maybe it is just the one that's high actually... Hard to tell!
  20. H

    Options for laying over uneven flooring

    They look to be reasonably level with each other the on either side of the "peak" Doesn't seem to just be one joist that's high. Looks like whoever replaced the joists did a terrible job... It's not deep enough to get access. I think they put 3 joists there because it was always a peak...
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