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Update- I've now wired and fitted. Via existing DP fused switch. Simple L and N and E. Switch on ,fine but won't turn off, been on now for an hour. Any thoughts? Thanks

Thanks Bernard, so does that mean I can proceed as in my last post? PS the lamp has L , N and E terminals, plus a further L which is blocked off for access.

Had the switch off and it does indeed have L and N in and out. Pull out fuse "tray" Cable out also has a yellow wire which I assume was for the separate PIR's which are now removed. So can I now simply use this cable to the PIR light using 2 wires for live and neutral. And yellow for earth...

Thanks John, How do I recognise if I have a fused DP switch?, It certainly has a (pull out) fuse compartment.

Excuse my ignorance but don't really understand that, can you explain please which terminals to use on the switch. I'll take a photo of the switch

Thanks for prompt reply. I think it's wired so that it can be turned on but would not turn off the lights when when a pir failed, thereby leaving the lights permanently on, meaning I had to go to the garage to isolate the whole ring.

I am in the process of removing 2 old 150 watt halogen lights switched by 3 old pir's. The system is is fed from a fused switch in a bedroom connected to an adjacent power socket. A cable goes to the loft. I have removed a cable from the switch which went to one of the old pir's In the loft...

Thanks for that. The phone cable comes direct from the external box to the old BT junction box (internal) and then to my Gigaset base,(via a plug in socket) not to the VM router, so old installation I presume. I just wasn't sure if the old box has internal capacitors etc which may still be needed

I have phone, tv and broadband from Virgin Media via cable. The phone outlet cable from the brown exterior box goes up 2 stories to an old BT box in a bedroom. It then comes back down to an internal junction and all around the house to several sockets.. The BT line is disconnected (cut when...

Thanks all, They are E12 12V 3W and seem to be available, ordered some from Amazon

Understood, thanks. Merry Christmas!

So as usual the outside Christmas lights have several bulbs out. When I remove one to check it a section of lights in the string also go out. When re-inserted the section lights but the bulb is still out. If I make a connection across the contacts within he bulb holder the section again lights...

Will need to drain the system so if I close off both valves on all radiators in the house (14) and open the drain valve at the bottom of the system will that still (partially) drain the pipes to enable me to re-route the pipes. Will that work? Or if not advice please on how to drain and refill...

Maybe hire a chaser. Re the dust, open door, blow dust outside with leaf blower!?:D

Yes intend to go straight across, no services in the vacinity Thanks

Thanks for that, any tips for cutting the channel with least mess?

I would like to sink a short section 1 (metre )of 15mm Ch copper pipe in the concrete floor where it crosses a doorway. Does the pipe need "lagging" and how deep should it be? I intend to box in the remaining pipe. Thanks

Update, it was a defective element, tested it again! New one fitted Thanks for the replies

I can hear a click and both lights come on, the same as the working bottom oven. Does this mean it's ok? Not able to test for continuity yet.

The main oven is not heating up .I have tested the element (replaced last year) and is fine. Fan is working, Bottom oven and grill working. I suspect the thermostat .I've seen conflicting advice on how to test but nothing simply explained. It's on the back of the control switch. Using a digital...