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Bit late now but I think the insulation usually goes under the slab. You could try some self levelling to get the worst of the ditches out

Perfect, thanks for that. I'll add the ties as I go up ready for the outer wall!

Hi I'm currently build a wall between a house and garage (tied in with wall ties) It's a cavity wall but I need to build it fairly quick as I need to get a flat roof on before it gets too cold. If I was to just build the inner block work (7.2n fibolites) would this be strong enough temporarily...

Just cut the piece of wood at an angle rather than straight. Are you using a table saw? If walls are not straight you may be best scribing in and cutting with jigsaw.

Give him a chance :)

I would measure the distance to see if you'll have a slim cut either end Then start from the door so there is as big a piece as possible there as that will take the most impact. The black line you have drawn should be a bit further into the room so the closed door will cover the join.

These are the ones I used to get it off the floor Fort such a small space that you wont be walking around in these will be fine and won;t absorb water. Just get a couple of packs to spread the load https://www.toolstation.com/pvc-door-stop/p95235

i just screwed lots of pvc door stops to the base of my wooden frame and it's been fine for years. Gets it off the ground and allows air flow underneath

I would build in block and cavity likeyou suggested. You're under 15sqm so will be fine. You could go a touch bigger if space

Hi My SE has specced a padstone as 215 x 100 x 140 deep I've ordered some to that size but they are chamfered, making the height 100mm and can't seem to find a 140mm one I assume a padstone would only sit on the 100mm block so the width would be 100mm and not 140mm and extending into the...

May need to go the other way and get 1000 door and adjust to 945. Depending on where it's going you could chase a bit of wall out to accept the frame if needed, unless you've tiled already

Clamp the tile somehow face down on flat surface and just gradually grind the back down and possibly use a tile file 6mm grout 4mm groove should get you there or thereabouts. With the tile being small it's worth a try Then just dot and dab that tile and push over the pipe.

If it's only a few mm from being vertical (hard to tell if the wall is plumb) you can grind out a chanel at the back of the tile with an angle grinder easy enough.

Thanks, will give it a go!

Perfect thanks! I'll do some tests with the white. Is it massively different to the grey when all mixed?

Out of interest as I may need to do this, could you have 200mm of pir under the chipboard or will this not be study enough.

HI I need to mix a really light mortar for a small section of brickwork. I'm currently using 2.5 red sand 2.5 yellow sand and 1 part grey cement to match the current brickwork To make this a few shades lighter can I use white cement instead of the standard grey or will that not make much...

Winner (y) Nice that the difference is 120mm too!

Not sure exactly, but if the current floor is flat enough and concrete you could you put a 100mm pir board down over a dpm and chipboard flooring over it without any digging.

sunken seating area?