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Bimetallic central heating thermostat bolted to a small heater (resistor)? If the power to the heater fails it takes a little while for the heater to cool down and make/break the circuit.

Maybe the person who did it is here and I can indeed reach them through the ether. Thanks, I didn't know that. The wall replaced a brick wall so it's understandable that the fire resistance should be maintained. At least while the newly-inserted, double double-leaf doors remain shut! The...

Yeah both live with the MCB closed, continuity between them with it open. It certainly makes it an easy job. I just wondered if there was any good reason why it might have been left like that even temporarily and forgotten about.

OP edited to fix picture! I blame Google.

I recently found this junction box stuffed in a stud wall. I knew there was a break somewhere in the ring final concerned from when I previously installed an extra socket. I had tracked it down to the leg running past this point but I assumed it was a damaged cable under the suspended floor...

Good idea. 24V-2V is 22V but the idea would be to limit the current, not the voltage. An LED will let through much less current than a bulb for the same brightness. A white LED will preserve the look. You may even find one for 24V packaged as a bulb replacement if you look hard enough.

All except C, and probably drifting between A, D and E as time passes.

Yes, I believe you could do it with a capacitor too. You would have to use a high frequency in that case so that the capacitor would have sufficient impedance to isolate the 50Hz. A high frequency switch capacitor circuit would also have exactly the same benefit as a high frequency transformer...

Don't all switching power supplies with a 230/240V AC input invariably contain a transformer? It's difficult to achieve the necessary isolation and fault protection otherwise. They just have extra electronics to run it at a higher frequency and regulate the output.

Ok, thanks for the reassurance. Can always upgrade at a later date if it does start tripping. Wouldn't be the worst way to spend a Boxing Day.

Hmm good point. The oven is rated for 220-240V. They must assume 240V for the quoted power consumption so that saves me an amp. But then my (uncalibrated) meter says 244V which, if true, would push it back up to 25A.

Sorry, this might be a bit of a tired subject... I have just bought a replacement double oven and I'm trying to work out what I need to do about the supply. The existing circuit is 2.5mm T+E radial on a 20A breaker and the new oven is rated at 5.9kW. That is a 25.7A load so I'll need a 32A...

Something like this is standard