Search results

Stuff

This reminds me of an article in New Scientist when the journalist had been to a HiFi show. Everyone was talking about how amazing a set of £20K speakers were, which a company had just brought out. The journo noticed the speaker flex had a familiar colour to it, and asked the man on the stand...

As far as I know these would have been supplied without flex, so the manufacturer would not be any help.

Thanks for the answer, I suppose what I should have asked was "can I, and how should I do it?". I am intending this to come from the upstairs lighting circuit. Thanks

I am having an Aqualisa Quartz Digital shower fitted http://www.aqualisa.co.uk/Our-products/Browse-showers-by-range/Quartz-Collection/Quartz-Digital/Exposed-with-adjustable-head/?area=241 , which requires a supply to run the mixing unit (non pumped). Can I run an extractor...

The augers in question need to be moveable, and work when they are moved, to help clearing blockages. The motors obviously vibrate as well, so flex is the only answer. The flex is a mixture of some black rubber, some black PVC (I think) and some white (PVC?). The rubber cables are badly...

I want to replace some flex in my grainstore that feeds several grain augers. Supply is 3ph, the largest motor is rated at 4kW, longest run will be about 5 meters. What size flex should I use? What quality (Arctic?) of flex should I use? Thanks

could it be that the sink has one of those lever/plunger jobbies instead of a plug...? There is one in my parents house that needs adjusting and it cannot keep up with the taps. Pull the plunger out and it all flows away.

Thats just it, you "reckon"! This is a domestic situation, 1.5mm, 6A MCB, 5x60W pendants (to be fitted with CFLs) 4xGU10s and 1x45w extractor. Don't mean to sound rude, and I realise there are calculations, but there must be a best practice.

After reading around this website regarding lighting cable in lofts I am very confused. Advice varies from loose cables over insulation to clip on joists under rockwool and "its not right but it'll be OK". I am boarding the central part of my loft to allow access to a new boiler. The joists...

Hi I've searched for the answer to this question but had no luck so here goes... I am replacing an electric shower with a shiny new Aqualisa Quartz Digital and need to swap out a couple of tiles that have holes in them. The previous owner of the house kindly left half a box of tiles so I want...

Does the reduction in labour really cancel out the extra cost? What other benefits does digital give over say a Mira Excel

I've been looking at mains pressure showers and reading about various makes and models on this forum. I am a bit confused as to the pros and cons of manual thermostatics against digitals. One installer suggested an Aqualisa digital and suggested that the install time would offset the extra...

thanks, loft hatch has been widened, but due to its postion it is pretty secure. IE close to supporting walls and timber. Someone has been up there before to install the current insulation, but they could have just been lucky....and I'm rarely lucky :roll:

Simple really, will it be safe to walk on 3x2 joists that run for max 4m. Ceiling is lath and plaster. This is purely to allow the installation of further timber to support supplementary insulation and a floor. Thanks

I am looking to board out a section in my loft for storage and access to a boiler/water storage. The roof is hipped with flat tiles fixed with mortar to lats. Due to the age of the roof (1930s) there is lots of dust and lumps of mortar falling into the loftspace. I would like a suggestion of...