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No problem I just wanted to connect the mirror wire up, and as you said I did it in that way and put it back in the Wago junction box. Also partly as I wanted to learn and understand.

Curious then, NYY is preferable to use as it only costs €5 per 50m more. I had one other question, using either of these cables, in a new kitchen installation with sockets and all appliances, dishwasher, washing machine, fridge freezer. I note that most Radial circuits are run at 4mm cable...

From the switch Wire 1 Colour is Brown goes to COM on the switch to the Permanent Live of the circuit. Wire 2 is Grey and goes to from L1 on the switch to Line in the Junction Box from here it joins the Mirror Line Wire 3 Black from L1 of second switch to Line in the Junction Box from here it...

The loft has a number of lighting junction boxes. This particular one I was referring to feeds the bathroom and mirror only, plus it has a cable that feeds to the next junction box and one that comes from the previous. I have changed the boxes to be Wago XL and Wago boxes with Wago push...

No, it was that everything was semi wired up from the attic to the new mirror in the bathroom, also the cabinet has an LED light attached to it but that is on a separate junction. So I wanted to tidy things up with WAGO connectors and boxes upstairs, and I took the opportunity to run put the...

To clarify, as I read elsewhere on a post here then you would take a small wire from Common on the back of the first switch which came from the 3 core cable and take it across to the common on the second switch.

https://lapplimited.lappgroup.com/products/european-power-cable.html Doesn't give much information away about either of them, other than one is buried in the wall under plaster and concrete and the other states similar.

I was trying to find out what is the difference between the two types of cable standards, but either I'm looking in the wrong place but not much seems to come up to explain the difference between them. Can anyone explain?

Thanks, for the prompt reply that makes sense to me now :) I was just being dense.

I was looking at the wiring that was left by the installer to get my head around how this would work but confused myself even more so I was looking for someone to explain it to me. There are two 10w LED downloads in a bathroom, controlled by a switch outside. They are wired in the loft into a...

Quite difficult to find, rang a few places but they only hire when they need. It's one of those neigh on impossible things to find someone on the off chance that would be willing to do it.

The work is portable, it's a 90mm 90 degree bend that came with a Viega toilet frame unfortunately it is only 235mm in length. The fame sits within a stud wall, the wall is 100mm wide. The coupling would make this 106mm which would mean it would not be flush. The only way then to extend the...

I am trying to find someone who is able to either hire out a machine or preferably just butt weld a 90mm pe pipe to a small extension. I can't electrofusion weld because the coupling will increase the dimensions to much for the wall it is in. The only way is to butt fusion weld the piece and...

Thanks for the prompt reply, its a 5 bed house, we've got a new unvented cylinder going in at the moment it's just a lead pipe that looks big but is very small internally. Since we have ripped most of it apart I wanted to get rid of the lead pipe too. It's a single bathroom, but there is high...

We have had the local water company approve the replacement of the mains lead water pipe in the property. The advise was to use a 32mm MDPE pipe because it would give better flow into the property. My confusion comes when you terminate the 32mm in the property with a 32mm stopcock then what...

The difficulty was trying to find one that fitted in the cavity. Opted for a Viega in the end.

No, whats a floating hardwall? Lime rendering and then plastering is costly just in the materials, which is why it is off putting. NHL 3.5 is around £7 a bag (if you get a pallet) and then plastering sand on top of that. Then either lime plaster or some multi finish to skim it off. It does...

Still not sure....ok let me ask you this then, which version of the boards would you go for? Gyproc do three a basic, mid and top of the range. Also in various thicknesses, all with 9.5mm drywall attached.

It does sound naff, that is my concern. It is practical to us the board with the insulation because it can allow you the ease and simplicity of putting it up, you do get a level surface easily. I agree with everything you have said, I am still not sure.... One other point, does the drywall...

I'm not using cement anywhere, the house is too old for cement and the bricks are far too soft. Even the structural engineer that came round said no to cement. We already have cavity wall insulation so not sure if you will gain much benefit of using the insulated plasterboard. However...