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Afternoon folks, I have the usual neglected timber soffits, fascias and barge boards on my house needing some serious cheering up. Can’t afford replacement so looking for any advice I can get on paint choice . I had a look around the forum already but not found anything within the last decade...

Correct - it was a very toasted combustion chamber door seal

Thankyou - so to be clear you think it sounds like the thermostat is opening as it should, at the temperature it should, so it's a genuine overheating issue? Thanks for the heads up it could be the combustion door too. That would make sense. And, yes, putting the screwdrivers down and picking...

Morning all, I have a Solo HE24 with an intermittent overheat lockout problem. This morning appears to have got a bit worse so managed a bit of debugging and found that the Safety Thermostat (the one screwed to the fan) appears to be opening up. I'm not sure if the thermostat is faulty or...

Old thread but relevant info here as I almost replaced my MA1 head at £70 but instead found a simple fix that's potentially a root cause for lots of these failed units: I had the same symptoms and indeed the microswitch wasn't correctly closing and putting live on the orange wire. Microswitch...

Hi folks Sorry for going quiet. Work’s going mental. I appreciate the helpful discussion so far. I have spoken to the store in the meantime and the team I needed to speak to were, predictably, “not picking up”. I’ve got another week or two to return them so I’ll try again next week. They...

The issue is there are only class 1 markings, so AFAIK all exposed metal parts have to be earthed - explicitly, which they are not. I think this is the most likely by the sounds of it, which would be perfectly safe of course, but no way of knowing I'll see if I can get some info out of them...

So, pendants from big UK DIY chain - they seem to sell a few of them and have done for at least a year or so (have had my eye on them). Finally bought, fitted, tested earth continuity and…****…the metal lamp holders aren’t earthed. Obvious now I look again – I didn’t think to even look for...

Thanks for the assistance on this one. Just to tie it off. Yeah I think this will be the case in a few years. Since I'm fiddling around with it now and it's a trivial replacement I'll sort it now Thanks, no they weren't There was not - still a couple of mystery cables in there still but...

Yup, just the screenshots, so I can't quote it, but: Thanks for confirming the MCB is obsolete and the magnetic trip levels - they're in the crosshairs. Why not just switch it for a B32? Well, it's just aesthetically nasty to have it looping around the house twice when everything could be much...

I did "report" my own post last night, so could have inadvertently caused hell that way. will reply better in a bit cheers!

Hi @chivers67 Two - one end of the upstairs ring, and one end of the downstairs ring None directly, into the MCB is the other end of the upstairs ring and the other end of the downstairs ring

Hi all, At some point in the past my two ring final circuits in my house (up/down) have been combined in to one, in series, so it’s effectively one ring doing two laps of the house and the R1+R2 reading is rather high – 0.519 ohms 32A Type 2 breaker TN/C/S earth This ties up with a...

Hello folks, Any assistance or suggestions on where to go next on a potential high Zs problem much appreciated: THE PROBLEM: Subject is the ring final circuit (one for the whole house – 4 bed, 2 storey, 20~25 sockets – all wiring in the downstairs ceiling so long drops) TN-C-S system, one...

My confusion was solely around the pins. I thought MR16 referred to the pin arrangement now understood as GU5.3. Understood LED is not MR. Thanks for the clarification. I've found a source for the old downlighters anyway (94002) so I'll be fitting those instead of my "upgraded" 12V ones...

Hi @JohnW2 The GU10 fitting, the spec sheets EFL found are clearly MR16 and I can't see any documentation of a 12V GU10 downlight in any JCC specs - not to say it doesn't actually exist of course, but I imagine they would give it a different part number if it did. I remembered being confused...

I've emailed JCC with photos as I'm intrigued, will post back if I hear anything

@EFLImpudence good find, although it appears I have something different to the links you've listed. It LOOKS like a 94001 BUT has a GU10 fitting and the double insulation sleeving around the wires. It's sold as GU10 and therefore 240V. Look at my original pic though - clearly a 12V sticker on...

One screw holds the terminal block together and fixes to the bracket in one swoop. The bracket doesn't have a convenient robust screw position for a CPC that I liked the look of Yes, and on the spectrum of horrors found in this house it barely registers. Nothing about ritually throwing it into...

So the metal is handily continuous from screw position to bezel. The bezel's a bit wobbly but worst I could manage twisting it around was 100mohm on one of them, normally less than 30mohm (at up to 3 Amps). So I've sleeved and earthed it up, confirmed continuity back to the switch. much happier...