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T&E is fine if it is protected from the sunlight (inside conduit etc) because the sun causes the plasticisers in the insulation to breakdown and this leads to the insulation becoming brittle which can lead to problems further down the line. An outdoor flex such as Hituf would be a good...

I bet the poor bugger who opened that first needed some clean underwear... :shock:

I'll check mine later but isn't there a spring/spacer between the shank and the cutter?

The cost will depend on the route the main supply cable takes... If it needs to be extended to move the incomer and meter then prepare yourself for a hefty bill - it certainly would have been easier and cheaper not build the bathroom around it :wink: For an accurate price you will have to...

Because the adhesive on insulation tape tends to dry out with time and then starts to unravel and fall off making it 'non-insulating tape'. It's also leaves a sticky mess all over the cables after you've spent ages getting the stuff off which is almost certainly going to annoy anybody who needs...

That scenario should never happen but one possibility is that the service fuse was duff, the second is that the cable your dad drilled through was connected directly to the main switch and therefore has no overcurrent protection and the other is that the fuses in your consumer unit are actually...

Unfortunately not, you will need to either replace the cable, use crimps or enlarge the hole in the ceiling. A terminal strip on its own will not be enough because it requires a level of insulation/protection and no, wrapping it in a dozen layers of insulating tape is not good enough and will...

I don't think so. They published a PDF of the draft version but that had a time limit which passed many months ago. I also doubt they would create another one because it would be too easy to distribute and they obviously like their profit considering it probably doesn't cost more than about £15...

I'm not 100% sure on what the actual problem is but I'll take a guess anyway... If the cables are just too short for the new fitting then you will need to extend them by means of: 1: insulated butt crimps applied using a calibrated ratchet crimper and then convering the whole joint with...

A double socket should never really be loaded up to 26A but good quality sockets can usually take about 18A-20A without any overheating/melting/burning problems. Davy

21.141 seconds :D

And he left out the Welsh bit too...

TLC sell it by the metre... http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Index/Flex_Artic_Yellow_or_Blue/index.html

:lol: Great idea, just disconnect the circuit protective conductor... Far easier than fixing a potentially fatal electrical fault.

Actually it's not. Replacements are not notifiable even within a bathroom and neither is installing/upgrading supplementary bonding. So 1, 4 + 5 is fine. However 2 + 3 is notifiable work.

If you had shown even a basic grasp of electrical safety I would have answered your question fully. If you had been bothered to read through the many threads and WIKI entries that tell you what you are after before expecting to be spoon fed the information, I would have given you an answer...

Please no not take offence at this, but neither yourself, nor your your wife have a clue what you are doing, and judging by the advice your wife has given you, the only advice I can offer is not to listen to her again and get a suitably qualified and registered electrician in to do the work...

The cable size will depend on the fuse rating. You will also need to check with your DNO regarding the maximum length of meter tails that they will allow their service fuse to protect. You will probably need separate switch fuses for each flat. I would not use 16mm² t&e. 25mm² split...

three for tea = 3:40 or twenty to four :lol:

And also that to get the bend within the safe zone you don't exceed the minimum bend radius for the cable you are using.