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I pinned using oval head nals (50mm). Creaky! Very! I took them out. My conc substrate is sloping off slightly, packs and shims tend to hit a pinch point so are not supporting uniformly. Ok to achieve level tho. Why not set up the frames with packs/shims and brackets, once happy, drop 200mm or...

I'll replace one of the cordless batteries, and countersink with a small 240v b&d. Maybe countersink the lot before I start.

Enough packs? I dogged the CLS frames together with some carver clamps and put in a load of 75mm coach screws, that, plus the ply glued on top, should see off any creaking. I had some shuttering ply - 15mm, a very handy size. Is ply always a uniform thickness? I only bought the 1st 4, I need...

Would SticksLike do to retain plastic shims where I need them? Oval nails sounds good generally.

Was there no other option for a slower curing glue? A 60 minute?

My cordless batteries are getting on a bit, but have a 240v SDS, would that be ok?

You're right about sheet sizes.

Is it a better idea to tighten the tail nut to the trv with trv held in a vice, to stop the trv from just spinning with the tail nut? Then ptfe the tail and wind the tail/trv body combination into the rad with the 16mm spanner? Until tight and vertical? I just can't work out out how to stop the...

I mistakenly tried mixing and matching a new trv and a rad tail that were supplied separately. But I don't think they're a great match. I should have used the original matching trv/tail, but the tail olive has now been tightened once so..how do you get tail olives off to replace them?

There are people out there that don't blow the holes out properly?

Alternatively, maybe I could have just carefully drilled, and Gorilla glued some 80mm wood dowels in.

You could just drill out holes (not on hammer action), blow them out and glue wood dowels in.

It does make the fixing into aerated blocks so much easier if the pull is at 90° (in shear).

Or maybe get some M6x75mm coach bolts from wilko and cut the heads off, find M6 sleeve/joing barrels online, drill 8mm holes without using hammer. Blow the holes out. Polyurethane them in. Can be a bit messy on a painted finish, masking tape around the hole might help. Keep an eye on it for 20...

You use your own weight plus screws. Would you butt ply sheet edges together with or without glue along edges? I'm putting click vinyl down.

Thank you. Maybe you could beef up those welds with a garage mig set before taking a new bar out on the job? I don't have t&g sheets, just standard 2400x1200x3/4" ply from B&Q. Maybe I should make sure all the edges land on joists/noggins. Or glue some splice plies to the undersides, where...

10 minutes being the working time with 60 minute being the total cure time? I'd struggle to get the glue down and the sheet screwed in 10 minutes. Maybe if I put the screws in dry to make pilots.

Gluing & screwing ply sheets down to CLS, Toolstation has some cheap (cheaper than Egger) D4, but 10 minutes? Is there a good slower option?

After the rad arrives and I get the tails sorted, I was wondering if I should glue the ply sheeting down on this side before continuing with the tricky 'flat CLS, part. What screws to fix ply sheets down, at what spacings? Do I just draw the the sheeting down with screws or add my own weight...

I have some 8mm tails that need extending to the rad. Would it be of any benefit if I continued them to the rad valves with 10mm?