Replace olive on rad tail?

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I mistakenly tried mixing and matching a new trv and a rad tail that were supplied separately. But I don't think they're a great match. I should have used the original matching trv/tail, but the tail olive has now been tightened once so..how do you get tail olives off to replace them?
 
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An olive puller, or can be cut off if enough room, or depending how tight it’s been crimped, some will pull off or persuaded off.
 
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An olive is an olive, when changing fittings, I always wrap old olive in a couple of turns of PTFE tape, no need to change olive, job done.
 
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1. Put an adjustable spanner with the jaws opened to 16 mm behind the nut on the tail (i.e. on radiator side).
2. Tap the spanner away from the radiator with light hammer blows. The chances are the olive will slide off. The tails are usually chrome plated, so the olive is unlikely to have got very tight as the chrome is hard.
3. If you are going to re-use the olive (I wouldn't) do as kidsgreen61 suggests.
 
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Is it a better idea to tighten the tail nut to the trv with trv held in a vice, to stop the trv from just spinning with the tail nut? Then ptfe the tail and wind the tail/trv body combination into the rad with the 16mm spanner? Until tight and vertical?

I just can't work out out how to stop the trv body, or close valve, from spinning when tightening the tail nut.
 
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1. The tail goes into the radiator before the valve is attached to the tail.
2. Wrap 15 turns of ordinary (not gas) PTFE onto the threaded part of the tail. If you hold the tail with the thread pointing away from you wrap the tape anti-clockwise onto the thread. If you do it the other way it will unwrap as you screw the tail into the radiator. You can do it with gas PTFE but start with 6 wraps.
3. Screw the tail into the radiator:
3a. If the valve attaches to the tail with a compression nut and olive (as yours sounds like) the tail will have a square or hexagonal part for a spanner just after the threaded bit.
3b. If the valve attaches to the tail via a union connection, there will be an internal hexagon in the tail for an Allen key.
3c. Just occasionally older compression tails have the internal hexagon.
4. The tail should be tight and require a decent pressure on an 8" (length) spanner leaving 1, 2 or 3 threads exposed. If:
4a. It screws right in leaving no threads on show, remove, remove old PTFE, try again with 20 wraps.
4b. It screws in but leaves more than 3 threads on show, remove, remove old PTFE, try again with 10 or 12 wraps.
5. Once the tail is firm in the radiator, slide on the compression nut and olive.
6. Fit the valve, tightening the compression nut onto the threaded valve stem. Tighten until the valve won't slide backwards or forwards on the tail, then another 1/2 turn with a spanner. The valve should not rotate on the tail. Hold the valve upright with a second spanner or grips while tightening. Wrap with cloth or leather to stop the spanner marking the finish.
7. When you have finished and refilled the system, make sure the compression nuts aren't weeping, tightening gently is they are until the weep stops then another 1/4 turn. Don't overtighten the compression nuts on the copper pipes, you can compress the pipe and damage the seal if you do.
 

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