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Flame on a gas hob are normally blue.

What’s the purpose of the 3 port valve, Combi boilers don’t normally have motorised valves at all.

Maybe a silly question but you are turning them clockwise to turn off?

Pipe work not secure somewhere is possible.

There should be a label on the boiler stating the model and GC number.

It’s very likely that you will need not only the heat pump but also a new hot water cylinder, all radiators replacing and pipe work modifications so expect the HP bill to be a lot more than just a gas boiler replacement.

Is it the valve sticking in the valve body or the motor sticking in the valve head? If it’s the valve head then that can be changed without draining the heating circuit.

Ok, got ya. Just turn the thermostat down very low.

You would have to modify the zone valve wiring as well or just disconnect the valve from the wiring centre completely so there is no call for heat.

The only way to do what the OP wants is to replace the CH motorised valve with a normally open valve to give a PDHW setup but without the ability to change flow temps in the boiler.

Any quote needs to be based on the heat loss survey, I'm surprised BG can state the boiler size without having the heat loss figure.

The dT of 20c is only for a flow temp of 70c. The lower the flow temp, the lower the dT. My condensing boiler generally runs at a dT of 10c to 15c with a flow temp of approx. 60c.

Be careful not to overtighten, it is easy to go to far and make the leak worse.

I wouldnt get to hung up on getting the delta t to 20c, not many modulating boilers manage that at 60c flow. Just get the return temp as low as possible.

The orange wires should all be connected together so that any zone valve can call for heat and turn on the boiler and pump.

I think its best to keep it simple. My suggestion is simple and free, just connect the additional pumps LNE to into the wiring centre and connect the pump live to the terminal in the wiring centre where the orange switched lives terminate from the motorised valves. So when the room thermostats...

If you have a 2port motorised zone valve for the CH you could feed the pump from the switched live of the valve.

If the Nest heat link is connected to the boiler then I can see that it might work but Nest can’t communicate with Wiser. Wiser is a pretty good system, it has a few foibles. I don’t use the Wiser TRV’s anymore as I have gone to a more open heating system.

Only Drayton Wiser TRV’s can communicate with the Wiser hub to fire the boiler as it is a closed system.

The TV Ethernet connection is probably only 100mb whereas WiFi can go much faster on a 5g WiFi connection. You are also limited to whatever your broadband speed is.