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Usual problem - I bought a set of LED downlighters, and a dimmer switch - but the dimmer doesn't reduce the light level! The dimmer switch is a BG Nexus 200W Grid Dimmer (SKU: RBNDTR) - Trailing Edge. The LEDs are 6 x 6W flat panel. Neither seller nor product packaging state compatibility...

Thanks phatboy, that's given me a similar idea. While I don't like to waste electrical cable, I do have free access to cable ties. So I think I'll nail them in the centre of the joists then loop them round the cables loosely (1 or 2 clicks).

I'm about to put up a new ceiling and would like to fit LED strip tape around the edge, about 25cm from the wall. The strip tape will sit behind a silicone diffuser such as eBay item https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266101406404 The diffuser has a depth of 8mm, so I'm thinking of using 9.5mm...

Doh! :oops: I had downloaded and checked the data sheet, but didn't think the install instructions would have helped! It seems obvious now ...in hindsight. Thanks TTC!

I have six Aico smoke alarms interconnected with 4-core cable. I would now like to add the Aico alarm control / test switch (Ei1529RC). https://www.aico.co.uk/product/ei1529rc-hard-wired-alarm-control-switch/ Would 3094Y cable (4-core 0.75mm²) be sufficient?

Well... clipping would certainly be easier for me, and I have a lot of clips available. So unless someone can suggest a reason not to, I think I'll switch to JohnD's advice and clip them.

To be able to move the cable when working from the floor above. Any cables clipped in position are effectively there for life - or until someone either replaces the ceiling again or removes a lot of floorboards. Reasons for doing so could be: - When tee'ing into an existing cable, you need...

Someone working upstairs in the future would need to lift a lot of floorboards just to access a single run of clips - because the boards run across the joists. I think I will use OBND's skewed nail/screw method as it sounds the simplest ... ... but I'll also do as Conny suggests and lift it up...

I'm replacing the ceiling in the hall. Since I removed the old ceiling there's a lot of electrical cables dangling which will be in the way when I put up the new ceiling. I could cable-clip them to the joist sides, but I don't like that idea because it will make it difficult in the future for...

Moved additional question to the plastering forum.

Thanks everyone, I've decided to tap into the sockets circuit and use a switched FCU inside the cupboard under the stairs. The main reasons for deciding this over the lighting circuit is because it leaves more options open for the future - I have concrete floors and a new ceiling will of course...

Ah that makes sense, thanks. However, that's got me thinking: if the stair lighting controller - or more likely its transformer - develops a fault which trips the MCB, all the lights on that circuit (the downstairs) will go off, and it might be impossible to switch the MCB back on until the...

It's not the only light source; there are some LED downlighters, and soon to be picture lights and possibly cove lighting. Actually the lights in the hall and landing come on automatically through occupancy sensors, so never even a need to fumble around in the dark for light switches, or balance...

By that I meant that I currently have easy access to both the lighting and socket circuits, so I can spur off either. The controller, transformer and mains outlet will be in a cupboard under the stairs, so they can be changed over the years when the inevitable happens. I think I'd prefer to...

I'm going to install one of those stair lighting systems where a controller illuminates each step, about ½ second apart, once triggered by a PIR sensor. The controller will be powered by a 24v transformer, and I'll be installing a mains switch for it. Which circuit should this be connected to -...

I had battery-operated LED sensor lights a long time ago, they were a chore to keep recharging and wouldn't be appropriate for this project. Plus, I've already bought the picture lights and very happy with their appearance.

I'm in the middle of renovating the hall and stairs, and I'm planning to fit picture lights. Q1. I will chase the walls down from the ceiling, install wiring and cover with metal protective channels. How should I terminate the cable at this stage? I assume I don't need some sort of round metal...

Is this the part? https://www.bes.co.uk/chrome-plated-compression-elbow-15mm-x-1-2-7625/ I take it the ½" end is shown top left, and screws directly into the radiator - if so, won't it be difficult fully tightening it and hoping the other end points straight down?

I think my previous photos were a bit misleading. Here I've aligned the radiator with the edge of the window frame, there's only about 33mm between radiator and the wall: Checking with another radiator, I'd need a gap of at least 65mm to allow fingers to rotate the isolating valve. Is...

I'd like to fit this vertical radiator closer to the corner, but would need to leave a gap for the valve so there isn't really enough room. Is there a compact double-elbow solution for mounting the radiator valves under the radiator, so I can move it closer to the corner? The 10mm Speedfit...