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Hi there-hope someone can advise me on this. I am carrying out much needed remedial work on the three dormers in our roof. After much thought about the alternatives I've decided on a lime render to the cheeks and small gable. I found a very usefull thread on this forum about the traditional...

Thanks Chippie.Not heard of mighton-will check them out.

After being held to ransom over heating oil I've decided my new years resolution will be insulate,insulate,draught proof,solar hot water,maybe an air source heat pump...how much actually will get done though...anyway the old wooden windows are falling apart and I have access to a well equiped...

looks like the perforated pipe is twice the price of the plain-say an extra £15 every 6 metres-and i need quite a bit of pipe,so looks like angle grinder here i come!Thanks for the advice.

thanks Nige-so i guess the silt sits in the concertina bits,this then blocks the drainage holes,I was thinking about getting some plain pipe and drilling a load of holes as the proper perforated pipe is v.expensive.

thanks deluks and ajs-bit more research needed-must say i've not heard of the straw thing-my understanding is 300mm of 20-50 stone below pipe and 50mm above then geotextile then normal backfill.

The drainage field needs replacing on my septic tank,it wasn't correctly sized or installed when first commissioned-there are many of these systems localy,and they all seem to use the flexible land drain which is specifically mentioned as being unsuitable in Klargester's literature-what is the...

thanks for that john.I will be using the blum tandem system which i have seen in practice,and it looks very impressive.

Thanks for the replies.Will try the beefing up thing,and I was thinking of tandem runners anyway.Cheers

I am building a kitchen which has some very wide (1200mm) pan drawers in the design,I am a bit concerned about the tendency of the drawer to "rack" (I believe thats the term) owing to the width.I can locate various runners which will easily cope with the loading,and have soft close etc,and there...

Thanks foxhole-glue is suitable for non-permeable surfaces

i'm laying a 22mm oak t&g floor-previously I have secret nailed to a ply sub floor,the supplier recommends using bona R850 glue and fix straight to existing floor,in this case well stuck marley tiles on a concrete screed-all well dry.just checking this is ok-the glue is water based,so I guess...

Thanks Stivino-hadn't thought of that will go armed with some cash.

As above-i'm trying to keep my old ally framed workmate alive-the catches break easily,but it is so much lighter to use than the modern steel ones-and my dad bought it for me 30 yeatrs ago.... anyone got one to sell,or a broken one...?

Thanks for the replies.I did seal a section of wall today,and it leaves a sort of plasticy film which will presumably be damaged by the grout-as you say,probably best to do without it.

Is there a non rapid set adhesive for porcelain? i've got some largish tiles which I'm putting on to uneven walls,and working 1/2 a bucket at a time is driving me nuts.I'm using topps rapidset flex.I suspect it's just practice,but I just don't have the time with the rapidset to "play" with the...

Thanks Dextrous,Dave and Marshman-looks do-able then-v.interested about the cane thing-now that does sound intriguing.

thanks dextrous.thats exactly the sort of thing. I can make up the section,just need to figure out how to make the arch,which has a mixture of gentle and tight radius's.I can see this being quite a tricky little job!

I want to make an archway that uses sort of rounded wooden beading on the corners-a forerunner i guess of modern angle bead,-It has to match existing old plasterwork,and I wonder if anyone knows what the method of making and fixing this type of corner was?

yep-I figure a friendly approach with a promise of some cash mght do it-if anyone can spot an ancient ( dare i say classic) workmate, those guys can