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So L-shape is acceptable? Yes, maybe I need to start thinking about the hood. The electrician left a socket near the ceiling for that though...

I'm going to have an induction hob and an electric oven below it. There's already a 6 mm2 cable in place. I want to have two individual switches above the worktop, one for the hob and one for the oven. The induction hob will be hardwired, the oven plugged in. Obviously the switches will be to...

Good point.

Crap quality? That's not good, I bought a pack of them and gradually fitting them around the house! Can you post the link to a decent one?

Thanks for your useful comments. I only thought I'd use them instead of the usual drain valve because I've read in this very forum that the drain valve has a small flow. Also the isolator valve has thread, so it's easy to attach a garden hose or washing machine hose. Spraying won't be an issue.

Any reason why I can't use an isolator valve instead of a drain cock in a central heating system to allow for rads to be drained easily? https://www.screwfix.com/p/isolating-valve-15mm-10-pack/32802 Isolator valves are used on hot water pipes so no reason why they can't handle the heat on...

Agree, not a good idea to mix and match. But I just wanted to know a bit more about that pipe. It doesn't seem to have a brand name like Speedfit or Hep2o behind it...

I bought this pipe recently, mostly by mistake: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/d20/Pushfit/sd3143/PB+Barrier+Pipe/p56065 I'm used to the Speedfit pipe. Have any of you used this one before? Is it just a different brand? Is it compatible with Speedfit fittings? The Speedfit superseal...

It's a very wide window, so I wouldn't be surprised if the lintel bearing is much more than 150mm. In any case, I won't be drilling underneath. Will remove plaster first to see where the lintel ends and if there is space next to it for a flue. I'm glad I didn't listen blindly to the gas engineer...

The flue will be close to 300mm away from the window, might need a plume kit. However, I think it still is going to fall under the lintel, so I might not be able to proceed. I'll remove the plaster tonight to confirm where the lintel ends. Thanks for confirming.

I'm thinking of putting a boiler near the window. The flue will most likely end up going under the lintel. Being the flue, the hole is not going to be small. It doesn't sound safe to me to be drilling such a big hole under the window lintel. What do you guys think?

It is recommended to use a cement board to tile upon in a shower area because tiles can let water through. Apparently, the cement board does allow moisture through but its advantage is that it doesn't deteriorate in water, unlike the usual plasterboard. So if that's true, then moisture goes...

If the make and model was in front of me, I would have supplied it. It took some time to find it.

Thanks for the manual. I didn't have it and didn't think of looking for it online using make and model. It only confirms what I thought though, that adjusting it to say 70% or 80% is a bit hit and miss. By the way, I had a thermometer in my bedroom for some time that also gives a humidity...

Envirovent SILENT-150HT Extractor Fan with Humidistat / Timer for 6"/150mm duct

Guys, 60% was just an example. My point is that there is no scale at all to even indicate what % I am setting the sensor to. I guess it is trial and error.

How do I set the humidity setting in my bathroom extractor fan? There's a tiny screw but it doesn't say how much to turn or how to end up at say 60%.

The idea behind me using silicone sealant instead of proper glue is that I can easily remove the panel in the future if needed, then put it back again. The no-nail stuff sets quite hard, so I'll probably damage the panel when trying to remove it. The alternative is to use screws with the tongue...

I'm wondering if I can glue a shower panel to a tiled wall using silicone sealant, specifically the 785 Dow Corning. Or do you always need to use proper glue? It's not like people will pull on the panels. Also, the panels usually have a tongue and groove fit between them. However, I've been...

Should I be concerned about the state of the wall though?