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Great. Thanks guys!

The bay window has a boxed in lintel coming 7cm down and the coving's 10cm. I could box out the beam a few cms further so I've got space to fit teh coving. WHat would you guys do?

I've got a 3m wide windows in a bay with 90 degree sides coming out. I would fit 3 curtains and poles to cover this bay, but would it be possible with one pair of curtains and one pole? What would be normal practice for this?

House is pebbledahs currently and I'll get it rendered in teh summer. I've got to replace a side gate currently so need to know what size to cut it down to. How much thickness is a smooth render coat going over pebbledash likely to add? 5mm, 10mm?

4 inch concrete slab. I've got to cut a channel in it for foundations for a new garage. I've got a powerful angle grinder with a diamond bit - goes through walls easily, but it does little to this concrete. I'd like a fairly neat break, so put off a Kango. I could hire an industrial strength...

I've got an existing slab there currently. Quite old and uncracked. I'm going to cut into it to build the foundations, but one end is 11cm lower than the other, so I need to pour some concrete to level it up The garage is 4.6 by 6m so about 2.5m3 of concrete needed. 1. Can I use the same...

On the old adage of no news is good news, this presumably all looks sane :-)

£102 with NO MCBS: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/84064/Electrical-Supplies/Consumer-Units/MK-Consumer-Units/MK-Sentry-17th-Ed-10-Way-Split-Load-80A-63A-RCD £72 inc 10 MCBs...

I'm going to build one and wanted to run some ideas past you folks as a sanity check! Foundations: Slab 45cm below ground, 35cm wide, so 12.5cm either side of blocks. Good soil and the garage will have a light flat roof Blocks: Celcon lightweight blocks (440x215x100mm). Will be a rendered...

I've just got planning for a full width two storey extension and it seems sensible to have some wort of tank in teh loft that teh rainwater could go into and then be used for the toilets in the house. Persumably this would be covreed by Building Control. Has anyone done or looked into this?

Thanks guys. What do you do at each end to both bend the conduit and then to provide a tidy finish at teh surface where the conduit comes to?

I did tamp it down and then top up the cement and water. Not quite as per the instructions but it seemed sensible. I'll leave it a few days then and see how it looks. Over time I suspect teh ground will harden but there's a good 1cm of movement now!

I ran a whole line of 6 foot fencing yesterday, set the concrete posts into the ground 60cm and filledf the Auger width hole with postcrete. The fence looks great. However, I've gone out to it today and pushing the fence posts you can see teh whole concrete move in teh ground. The postcrete...

Concrete posts and they rock around a bit. I'm thinking of cutting out wood wedges to stop them movingb about unless anyone has any better suggestions?

Thanks folks - I've been using building sand for the concrete and mortar. Didn't realise I needed to use sharp sand for teh cocnrete, but I do now. Cheers

Cheers guys. I've got an electrician specced too!

Consumer Unit 1.5mm cable for lighting 2.5mm cable for mains 6mm for oven earth cable earth clamps earth sleeving junction boxes sockets, switches and backboxes Capping to go over cable Light pendants Have I missed anything?

I've mixed mortar using 1 part cement to 5 parts sand. It sets and dries to a green colour, not the sort of sandy colour on houses I've mimxed concrete with 1 part cement, 3 parts sand, 5 parts aggregate and I end up with a similar looking colour to my mortar, not the sort of grey cement...

I'm goign to put loft insulation in and also get the house rewired. Is it best to do the loft insulation first so the sparkie can run the wires over the insulation?

I'm looking to get this: http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=T2EQCFOT12VJ2CSTHZOSFFA?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=31033&searchbutton.x=0&searchbutton.y=0&searchbutton=submit Is it the sort of cable that's usually used (for the LV end)?