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That seems the most logical, seeing as I would have to refit the plasterboard anyway, after adding the extra studwork. Makes more sense to just replace the plasterboard with plywood, and screw the door into that. @ree, have edited my question to fix the link. To answer your questions:-...

I'm looking to fit one of those frameless shower doors, that consists of a metal post on the wall that takes the entire weight of the door (e.g.: http://www.heatandplumb.com/acatalog/Premier_Pacific_Hinged_Shower_Door_760mm.html ). The problem is that the stud wall doesn't have a vertical timber...

Really? Virtually every cladding manufacturer and retailer markets them as "shower panels".

I'm planning to install those plastic shower panels in my shower alcove, but have been wondering how I go about fitting the door, in particular how to get the door frame tight up on the wall without tightening the screws too much, which I imagine will crumple the plastic panel. Am I worrying...

Great, I've got an engineer coming out next week. Glad to hear it's something that he can adjust in the boiler and not a flaw in the system design!

Recently had a 15/21kw Grant Vortex external oil boiler installed but it seems to be struggling to cope when both the HW and CH are on, despite it being the same power as the old boiler (which was 70000btu and coped fine). The boiler manual seems to say that it's output is factory set at 18kw...

I don't really want to fork out for a powerflush so I'm wondering what the alternatives are? Is draining and refilling the system enough (using appropriate cleaners/inhibitors as part of the process), or should I also be removing each radiator and flushing out with a hose? The house is 14 years...

My parents recently had a new boiler fitted. The new one has been sited elsewhere in the house, resulting in some changes to the airing cupboard pipework. Since the work was done they've been getting air in the system - the CH comes on early evening but the pump gradually becomes more noisy, and...

I have an Aqualisa thermostatic mixer/bar shower, and I'm finding that the inlet filters clog up every few months, reducing the shower flow, so I have to remove the shower from the wall and rinse them out. I'm in N.E.Wales which as far as I know isn't a hard water area, so I'm guessing it's...

Having been a convert from water-based stains to decking oil (3 winters and still not flaking), I was wondering if I can use decking oil on fences? Or is there such a thing as oil-based fence treatment (and won't break the bank)? What about "creosote substitute" - are these any good? Also...

No idea about the tap I'm afraid, it came free with the sink. The noise only happens with the cold, the hot is fine (but it's a standard boiler to answer your question). The kitchen tap is plumbed in right by where the mains comes in. The strange thing is the noise is worse if the cold is...

I recently changed the kitchen sink and mixer tap, and as the above title says, when I turn on the cold the pipes make a very loud "rushing" (or "shushing") sound. It never did it with the old mixer tap, and the only obvious difference is that the new tap has small bore flexi hoses rather...

The system was drained and filled with inhibitor back in spring. We've never had a problem with air in rads in the 5 years we've lived here. I bleed them from time to time, but rarely (if ever) get air out of them. Given the sudden and severe (i.e. loud!) nature of this problem, and the large...

We have a "conventional" gas boiler with header tank and hot water tank in the airing cupboard. Over the last few weeks we've started having a problem which coincides with the CH timer turning the hot water on, usually in the morning but it's happened once or twice in the evening. It's only done...

I'm about to replace the shower in a downstairs bathroom, and fit a pump too. I've had a couple of plumbers out for quotes and both have said there should be a dedicated hot feed for the shower all the way from the hot water tank upstairs. Currently the shower hot comes off a pipe in the...

Thanks for the reply. Just a quick follow-up question: the existing rad is connected by 10mm pipework which comes straight down the wall (connected somewhere under the floor above). If I was to extend this to the other end of the room (approx 18ft) using 10mm speedfit, and fit a rad of approx...

Hi all A little background: a couple of years ago a plumber fitted a rad in our garage conversion but for whatever reason he put it on the back wall. However it's the front half of the room that is coldest as it juts out from the house, and the walls in this 6 foot or so of the room are...