Strengthening a stud wall for a shower door

[andyste]

I'm looking to fit one of those frameless shower doors, that consists of a metal post on the wall that takes the entire weight of the door (e.g.: http://www.heatandplumb.com/acatalog/Premier_Pacific_Hinged_Shower_Door_760mm.html ). The problem is that the stud wall doesn't have a vertical timber stud where the door "post" will be going (for info, it's approx 10 inches from the bathroom door. I haven't had a chance to see how far along the next stud is).

What's the best way to strengthen the wall to take the door post? I thought about removing the plasterboard between the bathroom door and the next stud, then fitting a number of horizontal timbers between the studs to screw the door to? (then replacing the plasterboard of course!). Or is there a better solution?

 

[ree]

How do you know that you've landed in a stud bay?

Whats the arrangement now - do you have some kind of enclosure or curtain?

What size tile is on the wall?

What kind of shower tray or base is in-place?

Your ref. doesn't work.

 

[jabuzzard]

If you are willing to take the plasterboard off, how about screwing sheets of plywood over the wall to strength it and allow fixings to the wall in any position, before covering with plaster/cement board as appropriate.

 

[andyste]

If you are willing to take the plasterboard off, how about screwing sheets of plywood over the wall to strength it and allow fixings to the wall in any position, before covering with plaster/cement board as appropriate.

That seems the most logical, seeing as I would have to refit the plasterboard anyway, after adding the extra studwork. Makes more sense to just replace the plasterboard with plywood, and screw the door into that.

@ree, have edited my question to fix the link. To answer your questions:-

I've taken the plinth off the raised shower tray that's there now, and can see fresh air below the front edge of the tray. Can't see far enough back to see where the next stud is.

It's an alcove shower. It used to have a bifold door but was removed a few years ago as wife got fed up cleaning it (it was a mould magnet), and have had a curtain for the last few years.

I will be stripping the tiles and replacing with plastic shower wall.

The existing tray is very deep and on legs - about 11" off the floor in all! I will be replacing it with a low profile tray on 100mm legs.

 

[ree]

Thank you for the replies.

But, if you were intending to remove the existing tray, tile and plasterboard in the enclosure space then why did you ask the question? Surely, with the studs exposed, all you have to do is add a couple of extra studs at the frame position(s)?

Remove the p/b out past the frame jamb position, and run backer board past the outside of the frame. Add another stud if necessary. This way you can tile out just beyond the jamb.

There is no need for a ply backing - doing that would pull you out too far off the studs.

Take care that when you drop the tray height that you still have good fall on the waste.

 

[jabuzzard]

Thank you for the replies.

But, if you were intending to remove the existing tray, tile and plasterboard in the enclosure space then why did you ask the question? Surely, with the studs exposed, all you have to do is add a couple of extra studs at the frame position(s)?

You could, but putting 12mm ply beneath the plaster/cement board means that you can fix stuff to the wall anywhere without having to worry about where the studs are. This is especially true if you wish to add something at a later date such as a grab rail for example.

 

[andyste]

The only reason I was intending to remove the p/b in the first place was to (somehow) fit new studwork. My question related to how best to do this, e.g. a vertical stud, several horizontal studs, or whatever.

However @jabuzzard's suggestion came up with a nice, simple solution! While I still have to remove the p/b, I'd just be replacing it with ply (of the same thickness of course) - no need for additional studwork.

Thanks for your help folks.