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I've moved the loo and it's revealed a 1" curved area of floorboards. The floor covering is pale blue rubber tiles. Ideally i'd get a new tile but the floor was installed many years ago by soneone else. Is there some kind of sealant or filler that could be colour matched to hide the gap?

The rot looks like pictures I've seen of wet rout, and for sure there was leaking right where the joist is. It would certainly be easier not to remove it, I guess I will know if the section I put the bolts in is sound by looking at the sawdust when I drill pilot holes. So potentially I could...

Won't the rot gradually spread if not removed?

Thanks. I've just had a really helpful conversation with David at joint-repair.co.uk and I think I'll go with the metal plates. He convinced me of the wisdom of supporting below using a solid insulation batten as a shock absorber.

I hope someone can advise me on this, it's structural so I'm nervous! Shower has leaked over many years and the ends of two joists have rotted. About the top third is gone from the wall to about 10cm along the joists. I've found a place that sells repair plates...

Sorry, I was unclear. Ib have the old tray (Coram with three upstands) and was planning to replace with the same one. But when I read about sinking the upstands into the wall, I wondered if I should just get a flat tray. I've only built two corners so far so I have some flexibility.

Thanks. Would it still be better to buy a tray with uostands then, or one without?

That's what I planned, but then I saw lots of stuff about rebating the upstands. I've done the boarding carefully, it's pretty much perfectly true.

I've boarded my shower alcove with marmox. Got to fit the tray now. If it has upstands (which a lot of people seem to recommend), do they need to be rebated into the wall? I'd rather not dig into the marmox, I was planning on shoving the tray up to the boards with a nice bead of polymer sealant.

Hi, I'm redoing an 800mm square shower alcove. It has two solid walls making a corner plus a stud partition with the plumbing in making a third wall. The solid walls are not at right angles and they have a ropey plaster skim so I'm going to true them up by boarding with Marmox multiboard...

It worked perfectly, and should outlast the valve itself which attaches very simply. Now I have two little screw holes in the tiles. What's the best way of filling/concealing? Grout?

Awesome! That looks like it will do the job perfectly. Do you know if the size would be standard - ie will it only fir Mira, or would it be OK for Grohe too?

I have a manual exposed Grohe Avensys shower mixer and I want to replace with a thermostatic bar mixer (eg Grohtherm 2000). But there is no backplate - the Avensys has compression joints and is held on the wall with a gurt big screw, whereas it looks like the Grohtherm expects to attach to a...

Replacing that microswitch seems to have fixed it. I think the diverter will still leak slightly from the cog bit, but at least it's running.

Gurrr. Spoke to soon. Dishwasher now throws a wobbly with Error E8. Looks like the gunk was the only thing keeping the divert valve working. Nothing physical looks wrong with it, but the microswitch shows high resistance in both positions. I've ordered a replacement switch from RS, fingers crossed.

Following up myself as I fixed it and it might help someone one day... I disassembled the machine - removing the rear and sides. Then tipped it onto its door to get at the undergubbins. Discovered the source of the smell - a semi-solid pool of pink decaying sludge covering the bottom tray...

My 10 year old Smeg df614fas has become unresponsive. It looks normal, there are two lights flashing which is the normal status when ready for a new cycle. However the button to select a programme doesn't do anything. The button works electrically - if I hold it while powering on, there is a...

Tray is one piece and very solid - only prob is that chip off the upriser at the back corner. Can it be mended with some kind of resin, or is it a write off? watertightness would only be through silicone sealant.

Thank you for replying, I appreciate it. Regarding the tray, it's some kind of stone-like material, quite thick, I don't think it can rust (unless that's a general term not just reserved for iron). There is a chip out of the back corner of the upstand, but otherwise it's very solid - I was...

I am preparing a shower enclosure for retiling and I need a bit of advice on how to proceed. Some photo's attached for clarity. One side was tile on plasterboard. I plan to replace that with suitable water resistant board. The other two sides are on plastered brick. I have several problems to...