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No, sorry, just reffetreferr the the 'common' wire needed if you have a 24v system... Not important!

Thanks for all your input @stem much appreciated That will be the c wire then?

...which means there should be plenty power to feed the digital stat? And hopefully at least work the on\off?

It's not a combi. Does that mean it's more likely to work if it's 230v? I will be decorating hall in next week or two, that's when i planned to do the switch over.

It is a Minute HE, Vokera. You know anything about these?

This is part of the description, which is what made me think it would be ok.

Thanks @stem for the very informative reply. I totally agree with what you said about bothering to make different versions. What would happen if I go ahead like I said I would just to give it a try, will it just not work or break the boiler? Or worse?

Yeah. But surely this would still work with a boiler? I'm sure I've seen these underfloor heating stats being used with boiler instead, need to look again. What are the differences between dry and non dry contacts?

This is identical...

I had the place rewired a few years ago heating system and all. Nothing on the two white wires?

Very little. No mention of the 2 white wires protruding...

I have an unbranded WiFi thermostat labelled rn004. I'm replacing a Danfoss rmt 230. 1) The new stat has 2 thin white wires coming from the side, around 5cm long each. Are these for extra temperature readings from floor etc? If so, how do I not use\bypass them so I can just use internal...

So inline pump or new tap? My hot water comes from storage tank in cupboard on same level as kitchen. Is it gravity fed then?

So are you guys saying that a bigger bore will not make a difference?

Hi I have fitted a new monobloc tap to my new sink. https://www.screwfix.com/p/single-lever-mono-mixer-kitchen-tap-black/6480t#product_additional_details_container My hot water pressure is pretty poor and I see the flexi tails that were supplied have only a 6mm bore. Fine for the cold mains...

Hi all. In my kids bedroom I fitted a 3 light circular spot light type fixture around 4 weeks ago. It had GU10 type bulbs in it. All was fine. I changed the bulbs for LED dimmable GU10 type (for their dimmer switch). From the start there was a slight flicker when not at full power. After 3-4...

Haha 90mm!

Yeah it spins freely. I even tried giving it a helping push start but it just doesn't turn. Its only a couple months old. I just wondered if it was something simple. I will just replace it. Thanks

I have removed the 9mm case fan from my desktop. I have connected it to a 12v supply. The blades try to move, only a few mm, then when cut power, you can see the fan blades relax and move back a few mm. Any ideas? Fan goosed?