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yes, is that wrong then?

Thanks, so i need to fit the pressure reducing valve before the engineer comes that way i can claim that there wasn't a pressure imbalance... Should I fit the valve at the stopcock or at the shower, i suspect having high pressure throught the house isnt a good idea right?

I installed a new Mira Mini Lite Thermostatic shower and after playing with it, turning it on and off 30 times, it stopped turning off. I called Mira and they are sending and engineer out, when i called they mentioned water pressure imbalance as a possible cause. My hot water is at 1 bar...

The only circuit coming into my bathroom is a lighting circuit connecting to a pullcord on the ceiling in zone 3. Am i right in saying that my bathroom supplementary bonding should end at the earth in that pullcord switch? When reading about supplementary bonding its made plain that you don't...

BCO is happy with paint, do i need to repaint on a regular basis? Also how do i deal with the Kerb and edges, do i buy a GPR kerb trim?

Thanks, I have found a roofer, i have the BCO comming tomorrow so i will see what he says and get the builder back if needed, i paid the guy as he finished before christmas and was moaning about his kids not having a good christmas this year, couldnt hold onto the last payment and see his kids...

Its about 2 foot wide.

We just had a small window put in by a builder and i just noticed that the window doesn't have a lintel. I asked the builder why he didn't put a lintel in and he said that the brick work was English bond and want go anywhere plus the PVC window that went in was load bearing. Does this sound...

Can you tell me what trunking to use if i want to run radiator pipes up a wall behind plasterboard?

I agree

The question is hypothetical, if i was to do any work I would have the design and installation looked at and testing done by a qualified person with experience, i do intend to do the city & guilds in september but until then i would not be confident to do anything other than a simple spur...

This is hypothetical (kind of) and is a question more about the regulations ability to produce safe and adequate installations than the ability of the installer. So if i understand, so far it's a thumbs up for the regulations?

Cause one problem quickly turns into several and when the builders work like snails your just glade that the walls have gone up and hope that the problems get sorted before the builder decides he's finished, plus its not until you start poking about that you spot the problems. The other thing...

Did i say unfused, i meant fused... :oops:

Out of interest do you think if an unqualified DIY novice rewired a house following the BS 7671:2008, they would have a properly wired and completely safe installation?

Think i found the anwser here: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=75406 20 amp DP switch to unfused socket right?

If i have a washing machine, fridge etc under the work surfaces in the kitchen would it make sense to have a isolation switch above the counter connected to a terminal outlet under the counter at the back of the appliance? Seems like a nice idea to me but maybe overkill, it probably means...

To be honest I have had enough of the builder he has taken a long time to build the extension and made a mess of installing windows, brickwork, drainage and more, i am guessing the BCO is going to have a field day when i get the final inspection so I dont want to see the builder again and given...

Whats better a Mineral layer or a Aluminum Paint covering on a flat felt roof? Also does anyone have any views on Cromar Aluminum Paint?

OK so the question is mineral layer or this 25 ltrs of Cromar Aluminum Paint? BTW, he quoted for the F'ing roof but has left it half finished, how is that doing me a favour?