Search results

can only think of lead flashing. Might not be a looker.

I believe building sand would give better adhesion here. the O.P. stated he had problems.( I laid the mortar 1" thick on top of the old concrete on my job, I wouldn't have fancied it at 2" thick. The concrete had no curved surface to accommodate).

As another respected member of the Forum once said of building/sharp sand, it's personal choice ( To regular readers, I mean Thermo and neo896 as the two respected members).

tacky pva. Never like dabs, I like a continuous bed of mortar.

when asked to do coving I usually end up filling between two coving pieces because the walls are not at 90 degrees.

on past similar circumstances... chop or gouge the concrete to provide a key apply exterior pva ( 5:1) to underside of slab 4:1 building sand to cement

http://media.diynot.com/191000_190689_77599_96601321_thumb.jpg click on link to see a jig I made. Thank you Ban-All -Sheds & my wife.

you might like to make yourself a spacer in the shape of a T from 2" offcuts.One nailed onto the other.The top of the T lodges against the previous featherboard. The leg which you have previously measured, stops the next featherboard from getting closer than 3 1/2 ".

hello Ken and ree, thanks for taking the time. No good at pix onto forum . Two are brick with render over. Haven't yet taken off any render or plaster so can't see what arrangement. They do leak, I've got a third to sort out. Thanks gents. Dean.

evening to the Forum. Advice appreciated. How were the low brick walls of steps to the front door of terraced Victorian houses, tied in to the front wall? These steps usually went from the pavement and over the basement yard). I'm trying to cure damp on the inside wall. Thanks, Dean.

no good at keyboards. If you google something like compression fit 15mm elbow you'll see a nut either end. An olive is a copper or brass coloured wedding ring lookalike.

try gardening section, some well informed contributors on there. One said use solvent based rather than water based.

That's it... and a nut and olive to connect 15mm pipe to iso. If it's bottom entry valve, don't tighten the valve up too much on the cistern floor. Do your flexi connecting first then tighten up .

Yes.

If this was a paying job I'd use contract emulsion 5:1 , reputation with customers etc. But diluted vinyl doesn't always peel, and you won't want to buy contract at £30 plus just for one ceiling.

Thanks for that Baynie. I didn't expect gloss performance from a tin that said two hours drying and wash in soapy water. If you paint for a living you know I mean having to come back the next day for the second coat and taking longer to apply.

Thanks for bothering to reply, John. I did, and it wasn't. I never buy from the sheds, I asked in case wrong info on tin was regular event. And the emulsion the customer bought, needed three coats.

Evening to the Forum. Any one had problems cleaning brushes with soapy water as per instuctions on tin? Customer supplied the satinwood, bought from H******e. Thanks.