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The roots will go around the strip, they will find their own way.

I don't think hedge roots would be too bothered if the strip was left in.

Timber rot is not caused by it getting damp, but from fungal and insect attack. Preservative such as tanalith prevent these attacks. So even if paint traps moisture in, that won't affect the timber .... but it will cause the paint to flake off. If you use a microporous exterior paint, this...

Google eaves comb fillers. They are made for that exact purpose. Originally, those Delta tiles would have aluminium eaves fillers, but you may not be able to get them now, but Google for those too.

From times when men were men. :cool:

Use comb filters.

For a canopy, you will need a "licence to oversail the highway" from the council's highway department. There will be a fee to consider it and an even bigger fee if they grant a licence. You will also need planning permission. Again another fee. And ironically, how you deal with rainwater run...

You should use a lime mortar not cement, as cement is too rigid and tends to crack.

Don't be so sure. I've been to a job where several builders made several attempts to stop this very same issue at first floor level but in a solid 9" wall. One of the attempts was to actually drill and install a chemical damp course like you get at ground level. I posted the photo on here...

Your engineer should be devising a solution to take the floor load, not just having a narrow mind set of "bigger load = deeper joists". Doubling up the joists, or alternate joists or having the same size joists at smaller spacing is as good as using deeper joists. A proper engineer should be...

For water repellant coatings, Thompsons and any other clear silicone liquid are temporary, as they get degraded by UV. Look for a silane/siloxane cream as these are very long lasting and perform well. They tend to cost 4-4x as much as the silicones. In situations like this, ensure that the...

A properly installed cavity tray works. Despite a builder looking at it, how confident are you that it has been looked at be someone who knows what they are looking at? Going by the state of those replaced bricks, implies that they may be a bit crap at their job Any photos of the tray showing...

I thought that plan was familiar, but I've asked the mods to move this to the particle physics forum

It depends if the partition wall is load bearing or not, and on a suitable foundation.

Take the ceiling down, completely fill the roof void with insulation, leave no gaps, then a layer of insulation across the underside of the joists (25mm if possible) then foil backed plasterboard and reskim. No venting required. Or leave it as it is and add a layer of thermal plasterboard to...

Those look like holes in the timber, if so you have wood boring insect attack and need specialist treatment of all affected timber

It may or may not work, it's a risk based on assumptions not only that the slab is thick enough, but that the hardcore base is thick and compact enough not to settle under load. The risk of shear is greater from part load, if the wall has a doorway Concrete is different to timber, it does...

If the door stop (the strip of timber on the lining) is detachable - which it looks like it is, you can lever it off and refix it a couple of mm off the door. That's the least disruptive and easier option, and the correct one. You don't really want to move the door outwards and re-set the...

It's not clear from your description where it is catching. Is it on the hinge side or the latch side?

Get yourself a compact 12v driver only with a high torque - the Bosch 12v professional driver comes to mind. I can't see how any big heavy 18v impact driver is useful for general DIY, compared with a lighter, more ergonomic driver. You need to have a specific use-case and regular use for an...