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Back to the original question - the CU had a dedicated supply to an immersion heater (just removed). It's 6mm cable and is switched via the kitchen (big cable into the switch, big cable out up to the old water tank), right where the oven is going. Could I use this cable run for the oven and...

Thanks. Not my bathroom fortunately, family friend of a friend tiled it. It's a low-pressure over-bath shower which won't see that much use so I think he's happy to leave it as is - the previous (25 year old) tiles were straight onto the walls with no tanking or panelling and all was fine...

Wow - what a chippy response. His work has been recommended, it's a very simple job for which I need a certificate, it's a fair price and I simply do not have the time to wait around for another four electricians to tell me I need something I don't because they either can't or won't...

Just noticed that new tiles around a bath/shower have been attached using Wickes Non Slip wall tile adhesive, which says it isn't suitable for showers on the back ... Practically, is this an issue assuming correct grouting and sealing of the lower edge?

Another electrician, needs RCD because stuck on a surface is less than 50mm deep in it. His price was reasonable despite, so he's got the job.

Most helpful. The RCD was apparently required because it was a new circuit and regulations required an RCD on all new circuits.

Thanks again. I don't have Part P in front of me, but there's a lot of contradictory information on the internet. For example, diyfaq.org.uk says: "In general, ANY cable which is less than 50mm below the wall surface AND is NOT mechanically protected as defined by the IEE Regulations...

Thank you, seems my electrician's advice about RCDs and Part P was incorrect. The intention was to cable-clip the cable along the most suitable solid beam or joist, and possibly put it in cosmetic plastic trunking where it's visible in the under-stairs cupboard if it looks neater.

No earth electrode that I'm aware of ... CU looks perhaps 1980s to my untrained eye. So to recap, I can run a new cable from a spare outlet on my existing push-in fuse CU and without installing a new RCD-equipped separate fuse box for it? As above, the cable will be visible only by the...

I thought it needed an RCD because it wasn't channelled? The actual cable run will be out the top of the CU box directly under the first floor floorboards and then down into the staircase cupboard to the back of the kitchen wall.

Thanks, that confirms my worst fears that £200 of hob and oven are probably going to cost £400 to wire in ...

Thanks. The oven needs a 2.5kW connection, the hob 7kW. The wiring run will be roughly 15-20m from CU to kitchen and none of it will be >50mm in the wall.

I have a new electric cooker and an electric hob to install - they're replacing a gas/electric all-in-one which looks like it was plugged into a wall socket. I understand that, for the hob's power requirement at least, I will need a specific supply from the consumer unit and a cooker...

I've booked an appointment for a visit from the inspector, but it's obvious lots don't and seem to get away with it. Observation rather than evidence of intent. Edit - and at £100-200 for the calcs and £200 for a council jobsworth to glance at it, even less surprising lots won't bother.

Yes, I know how it arises but I imagine 9 out of 10 knock-throughs (for example) never get near Buildings Control - who's to say when it was done? If every notifiable job was notified, they'd need an army of inspectors.

Practically speaking, what is the incentive to involve Buildings Control (not withstanding the legal requirement)?

Thanks, that makes sense.

I've set on a builder to knock through a wall to make two small rooms into one larger one. The wall is load-bearing and he has ordered the steel required after having a structural engineer provide the necessary calculations. Apart from this, I assume someone from the council should visit to...

Hmm. Looks like the room may need more plastering than initially thought so stripping the lot is sounding likely. Problems re papering over paper make sense.

Right. After further inspection I may put lining paper over the vinyl's backing paper.