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Ceiling tiles are designed to control sound levels with the room, as used in offices and the like. They are of no use to stop sound entering the room from somewhere else.

That's because they don't exist. Who installs equipment is unrelated to where electricity is purchased from and how much is paid. People can change electricity supplier at any time and pick from a wide variety of tariffs. Meter boxes are for supply and metering equipment only. It has never...

All that is true, but it's still just a switch with two wires. Buy new switch, connect those two wires to the switch. The end. Other taped wires are unrelated.

Charge current is set as a maximum by the connector box and the cable used to connect it to the vehicle if that cable is a separate item. The vehicle will charge at whatever current it chooses up to that maximum. What rating of socket it's plugged into changes nothing.

In terms of those diagrams, nothing. However modern RCDs contain electronics which are powered from the supply. it may be a requirement of the manufacturers spec that those electronics are disconnected when the device trips - which would not happen if a supply was connected to the 'load'...

Two things: Using the single and twin cable in that way between upstairs/downstairs is a poor choice as it will create significant EMI. Switch cables should be 3C&E so that a neutral is available at the switch position.

The ESI thermostats use 5V DC, the Tado requires 230V AC. There is no compatibility between them. If you want to use the Tado then the ESI control PCB will need to be removed, a suitable wiring centre installed in it's place, the plugs on those zone valves cut off and the wiring for them and...

There isn't any other way - the SPD is connected to the supply, which supplies the whole building. Even if it was installed in a separate consumer unit, that would be connected to the same supply as any others. SPDs can be installed with an isolator for the whole installation. They can...

Mid 1980s. MCBs are Type B which only existed in BS3871 from 1981 onwards. Main RCD BS4293 which is most likely the 1983 edition of that standard, and that was replaced by 61008 in 1990.

The difference between that and the 2 core version is less than £50. If you really must save that £50 then get 3 core 6mm² instead. 6mm² is good for at least a 10kW load. You will not be needing anywhere near that - and if you did, an entire new supply would be required at a cost of £1000s.

It's an ancient Bitron effort. The replacement is an Ensign 3407, as discussed here: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/entry-handset-replacement.591695/ The Videx item is of no use.

To install as intended by the manufacturer, it requires a 2 core flex from the ceiling which goes into that tiny little box. No single insulated wires outside of it and no other connections there either. As reality is unrelated to manufacturers desires, there are two options: Install a...

It does exactly what you expect. Holds there, or apply more power and it moves forwards. Apply too little and it could roll back, depending on whether the software has been configured to allow that to happen. EVs mostly have permanent magnet AC motors, all of the windings are connected all...

If people don't have any kind of testing equipment then they should go and buy some. Ridiculous that people should expect to do electrical work with no testing equipment at all. Even a cheapo £15 multimeter from Screwfix or similar would be plenty good enough for basic dead testing.

Photo of the meter has 'Octopus E' on the display.

Yes, it's just a device which connects to that particular 32A socket, much like anything else. It's not a 'charger' either, it's a box which detects that a vehicle is connected and then turns on the 230V AC to the vehicle. Actual charging and conversion to DC is done inside the vehicle. That...

They already have a smart meter. A 35 year old house isn't likely to need a rewire. That fusebox should be replaced, and given it's only four circuits it would be done in a day. What exactly do you want this thing for? If you want to see energy use in real time, just get one of these...

Yes, a buck transformer, but such a thing will cost more than a new light so it's not the solution here. That is well within specification for anything sold in the general Europe area, which would be anything up to 253V. Georgia voltages may not be exactly those, but it's rather unlikely anyone...

It would have been, and if doing the conversion today the more usual choice would be to have a circuit for the lighting, another for the socket outlets and perhaps more for other things if they were required. That could be circuits just for the loft, or extending those which already cover other...

Dicking around with gas appliances when you have no idea what you are doing or what dangers you are creating. Either get it repaired by someone who does know what they are doing, or turn the gas off and leave it off.