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The back boxes are plastic.

Most of the sockets and switches are wired in singles in 20mm PVC conduit. I can just about get to an inspection box several metres away by removing a downlight, but if it's not the same conduit or it branches off somewhere else the only way to get to it would be to take down the ceiling as...

I need to earth a light switch so I can replace it with a metal version. After a bit of struggling inside the walls I've got a single earth cable to a nearby switched fused spur, can I use this earth or do I have to struggle on to the nearest earthed light switch?

My large plasma TV uses 1w when on standby and my mobile phone charger is not measurable it's so low. More myths...?

If I have some MR MDF run through a spindle moulder to put a straight groove in it, would I expect it to look the same as doing it using a router? i.e. would the edges be clean and free from chipping?

Yes I was using a new 25mm bending spring, I'll try the hairdryer idea...

Can I bend 25mm conduit with a bending spring? When I've tried it either kinks or tears. I was trying to make some 90 degree bends and it was a cold day!

If you care about audio quality the speaker cable should be continuous from the amp to the speaker. A blanking plate with a grommet in it is therefore a better solution.

James Latham www.lathamtimber.co.uk have both zebrano and wenge. About £50 per sheet for Zebrano and £65 for Wenge. They have a branch in Wakefield.

There is only a 50p difference on the MEM Stainless Steel range so I've gone for DP.

Do people people recommend getting Single Pole switches or Double Pole switches on 13A Sockets. Obviously switching Neutral and Live is better, but is it overkill?

I don't want to leave them as LV as the transformer is a toroidal and buzzes when dimmed as the dimmers are the wrong type. I also want to replace the lamps with low energy ones. 450W is a lot of lighting above the kitchen island worktop! I could loop in and out as the lights are arranged in...

The cables are all round 3 core, the question was, as they are all currently in a connector strip in the transformer, do I just join them all together with junction boxes when I remove the transformer, or is there a better way.

Downstairs, the transformer is located in a utility room. All the lights are in the same room and run off the same switch. The obvious answer is junction boxes but there is probably a better way.

I've got 9 x 50w 12v downlights running off a 500w transformer. All 9 wires go directly to the transformer. What's the best way to join them all together so I can convert the fittings to 240v GU10?

There is actually a steel disk that fits round the pipe to cover the hole in the inner wall but it's just loose at the moment. I was thinking of using rockwool, as I have a roll for another project. I just wanted to confirm that it would take the heat. I'll then screw the disk to the wall to...

I have a modern designer gas fire with a steel flue pipe then comes out of the back and through the wall to the outside. The fire sits on a plynth about 30cm from the wall. The hole in the wall on the inside is larger than the pipe and I am getting a draught through the cavity. What can I...

I bought one of those attachments, an hour or so later I put it in the bin and bought a mortiser!

Does anyone know where I can get it from? My local timber supplier can get Wenge but it's £105 /sheet + VAT.

Can I get any other bulb for 12v i.e. LED or Energy Saving? Should I be using individual transformers for each light, or a larger one to cover several of them?