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a 20 year old injected course could easily have failed by now if it ever worked.

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that's why I said 120 minimum, 120 can satisfy BR for a warm roof, depending on type of insulation and fixing methods.

could be yes. Also bear in mind the two issues could be totally unrelated. As for the neighbours next door I would await any action from them first.

I see why you're asking, where the fascia ends and there is the stepback to the lead flashing you may well have to cut it so one bit folds round the end of the soffit/fascia boxing, which will leave the other bit that comes straight down over the flashing and soakers short. I would then glue...

and each one needs plumbing up individually too. set out your walls on the floor not the ceiling and plumb everything up from there, two end legs fixed to the header, set it on the sole plate and wedge the legs out, plumb each end then uprights naturally follow plumb between sole and header

used them loads of times excellent company if not always the cheapest.

a decent clean and sand, both water and oil based are available I would definitely prime according to the recommendations of the manufacturers of the paint you choose. I know you said don't suggest leaving it natural, but can I ask why not.

I will guarantee you are wrong on this and most specifically in this context. The originally engaged firm most definitively and specifically made it clear they were disengaging from the contract and that the terms of engagement would be with the new firm, should the OP decide to go with them...

I will get the number off my father in law he's had two roofs done by this guy and I have seen both jobs and their very tidy. As for the slates fibre cement are crap compared to decent slate, and there is decent slate out there cheaper than welsh, but there is also some dross out there full of...

120 minimum

your best bet would be to let it dry some more, at least until it feels dry on the surface then I would use BIN to be sure

yeah would probably help and I don't know where you live but keeping wooden sashes around here adds to the value of the property, providing they are in decent nick. Its that time of year I'm afraid they are all looking for somewhere to hide up

I agree essentially it appears he is doing all the right things there but there at a few issues. He's not really getting enough adhesive to the edges of the tiles hence the gaps you can see, tiles of that format should be fully bedded once pressed down. He's using lash clips which when...

yep I think you have most of it, but just looked back and noticed that you already have the boxing built for your fascias and soffits. As before run all your tiles up the pitched roof with soakers and where you ask "what to do here" cut a piece of lead that covers the upstands on the soakers...

no not necessary but you would run a single batten the same thickness as the tile battens up the pitch and then run your tile hanging battens into that

just cut out the overlap

if it is tight to the wall then sanding and filling is the answer. Plaster isn't the easiest thing to sand. If it is really bad then it could be skimmed over again but preferably by someone else.

absolutely ridiculous just do it as you suggested originally. start from the top though so that each sheet overlaps in front as you go down so that your dust slides to the bottom. Bet she doesn't go up there again anyway

I reckon he was going to take it off, but undid the wrong screw, broke the switch then had second thoughts, because the paint spatters on the switch would suggest that it was in place when he painted.