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Whether they are compulsory or not, it would be a "Good Idea" to fit appropriate Surge Protection Devices at the CU of any installation. The following installation (for a Two Bedroom Australian house) has two "Over Voltage Arrestors" - of different "capacities" - along with the RCBOs and MCBs...

As indicated in the Wikipedia article, there are now many different varieties of Tim Tams. I prefer the Dark Chocolate over the "Original".

While Hob Nobs are sold in Australian supermarkets...

Please explain.

Is the LED "fitting" (or the LED Lamp within it -if any) actually rated as dimmable ?

You may be interested in the results of the following "Google Search" - although the "results" obtained from the reference below differ slightly from those obtained originally, which are quoted underneath...

It is likely that "remodeling" has taken place - over the last Centaury - and the Bell Pushes and wiring have been disconnected. (The two indicators on the right have no conductors connected to the relevant terminals !) That may be of some assistance. However, even if you DO locate the...

Hence the use of a USB Voltage and Current Tester is a "Good Idea" as suggested in Post #10.

Why do consider that a USB-C connector would "wear the phone battery out quicker" than a USB-A connector, supplying the same Voltage?

YOU might think so BUT USB-A is the Basic Standard from which all other USB connectors developed. The main advantage of USB-C is that the Plug can be inserted into the Socket in two orientations - because of multiple Top and Bottom connections. Maybe. Of course, a good "plug in adaptor" should...

We all have our problems!

A complicated set of questions involving both the "Ring" Trade Name and UK Ring Circuits. Having any "electrical connections" "tucked under floorboards and carpeted," without access is not allowed in the UK, unless such connections are of an approved type and in a "Maintenance Free" box...

Presumably, the new Light fitting is of Plastic construction, has only a two wire connection and is labeled as being "Double Insulated". Just "Connect the L and N as normal and safely terminate the Earth wire in a separate connector block" as you have already suggested.

Sorry SUNRAY. I think that you really should get used to considering "LED Panel" Luminaires. These have a wide area of illumination, as compared to Fluorescent Battens and their "LED Tube" Batten replacements. (e.g. https://www.ledpanelstore.co.uk/ )

Pictures, voltage details and the floor placement of the proposed "IP-rated in-floor uplights" would also be of interest, considering the UK regulations concerning the placement of 230V "devices" in "wet areas" - such as Bathrooms.

To the switches, you need to replace any existing cable with a suitable length of 1 mm² 3-Core & Earth Cable, in lieu of that which you have proposed. Ericmark suggested However, you could use "kinetic" switches and their associated "Receivers". One "Brand" for such a product is Quinetic...

When Australia "Metricated" (in the 1970s), the minimum ceiling height was reduced from 8 Feet (2438.4 mm) to 2400 mm, to align with the maximum size of a Plaster Board sheet then becoming 2400 mm.

One must wonder what is meant by "getting a slight 'buzz'" The "meter" may (almost certainly) have been a High-Impedance "Digital meter". From this it appears that "Equipotential Bonding" has now been achieved, which is good. I might observe, at this point, that "Earthing" may be a misnomer...

However, that was in https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/pen-non-contact-tester-v-multimeter.650270/ (You should have posted the "Link")

The second Luminaire is "brighter" and dimmable. It is also appears to be colour adjustable - probably at installation. The first one is "fixed" at 3000 K. I prefer a less "orange" colour than 3000 K but that is a matter of personal preference.