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Installing downlights

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Hi
I want to install downlights in my hallway on ground floor, there is a ceiling light and a light switch as in pic below. To trace cables, I took a floorboard on first floor which is just above the light; pic attached. Am I right to say one of the cables marked C1 and C2 are loop and the other is switch line? Also am I right to say this ceiling light is the last one in this lighting circuit as there is no loop cable coming out to go to another?
From tracing the 2 cables, C2 must be the loop and C1 is the switch line.

IMG_7618.jpg

IMG_7615.jpg
 
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If C1 is the switch cable then C2 must be the feed...probably.

If so take those wires to the first downlight and loop in 1mm twin and earth to the next ones.

You might need a junction box above the first downlight.
 
If C1 is the switch cable then C2 must be the feed...probably.

If so take those wires to the first downlight and loop in 1mm twin and earth to the next ones.

You might need a junction box above the first downlight.
Yes C2 is the feed, I'm calling it loop,

Defo a JB for first downlight.
 
I do but am not a pro or electrician so always seek advice, opinions and confirmation before starting works.
Makes sure the power is off while working dont take any chances.

Any more questions pop back here you'll always get help.
 
I want to install downlights in my hallway on ground floor,
One wonders why you would wish to install - in a Hallway - "Downlights" - which illuminate only a small area on the floor beneath them.
Recessed surface mounted wide-angle LEDs may be a better choice!
To trace cables, I took a floorboard on first floor which is just above the light; pic attached. Am I right to say one of the cables marked C1 and C2 are loop and the other is switch line? Also am I right to say this ceiling light is the last one in this lighting circuit as there is no loop cable coming out to go to another?
From tracing the 2 cables, C2 must be the loop and C1 is the switch line.
Just install one replacement "luminaire" where the existing light is and install any other "luminaires" in parallel with it.
 
One wonders why you would wish to install - in a Hallway - "Downlights" - which illuminate only a small area on the floor beneath them.
Recessed surface mounted wide-angle LEDs may be a better choice!
You beat me to it. I had a 65 watt fluorescent fitting in the kitchen, wanted the spread, but way over the lumens required, this went to a 58 watt, and then a 22 watt LED, house sold now 14 x 4.8 watts down lights and the lighting no better to the 22 watt LED tube.

I have looked at them and considered arranging as the great bear or some other star cluster.

However, it is all down to how it looks, And of course the existing wiring. Go to Turkey, and they went to CFL well before us, as they don't want to heat the house with the lights, it is hot enough already, they arrange their lights in two groups, 1/3 and 2/3 approx, so they have 3 levels of lighting. Some though is needed so it does not look as if lights have failed.

But the big problem with down lights is the cost, to convert a pendent light to smart lighting at a £5 a bulb, is £5 but to convert 10 down lights is £50.

The same GU10 bulb in a pod can give so much more light. I did an experiment, I fitted 2 pods with GU10 bulbs either side of the bed so we could read in bed, aimed basic down onto the bed, not really enough light to see around the room, turn them up so they reflect off the white celling and loads of light.

The wiring bit, get a lighting junction box with cable clamps, you can get them small enough that they will fit through the down lighter hole, and leave enough cable slack so you can do that, then no need to lift floor boards next time. I have wall lights in my hall, and one is a daft integral type, wife got it, works well, but means when it fails have to change whole lamp not just a bulb. And likely with need some decoration, as unlikely to be same as one removed.

I look at lights, and these
1758448736390.png
seem to now be the standard, and I want to be able to swap bulbs, looked at Screwfix as an example and the first 20 lamps were integral types. Loss of the fluorescent tube is a problem, as the only surface mount lamps for years were fluorescent, so all we have is fluorescent converter to LED, there seems to be no LED lamps with a renewable lighting bit any more.
 
I haven't decided yet of which lights and how many. I am first checking how easy is gone be. So far, looks straight forward; was easy enough to locate joists lift floorboard at the right location using my multi tool oscillator and identify the cables. I will either go for downlights or flush mounts, it will be less work with the latter and also easier to maintain. I have three bulbs atm, each 806 lumens, total app 2400 lumens so want to maintain that sort of lighting or even more; either 5 downlights or 2 flush mounts. My definition of downlights and flush mounts are as pics below:
downlights.png

flush.png
 
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Can you easily run the cables to the required positions of the extra lights?
Fairly easy, similar to what I did yesterday to identify the cables; locate joist remove floorboards, I have the tools inc multi tool oscillator which is perfect to cut floorboards neatly. First floor is carpeted makes life easy. I may need to drill holes in joist to pass cable/s. As am DIYer, I take my time, plan what to do, seek advice and opinions and never rush, aim to get it nearly perfect if not perfect otherwise I call professionals.
 
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Doing a bit of research, only one flush mount light will do the job. The LED lights are changing so fast becoming better and affordable; two examples of 4100 and 2700 lumens for less than 30 quid:
 
Doing a bit of research, only one flush mount light will do the job. The LED lights are changing so fast becoming better and affordable; two examples of 4100 and 2700 lumens for less than 30 quid:
The second Luminaire is "brighter" and dimmable.
It is also appears to be colour adjustable - probably at installation.

The first one is "fixed" at 3000 K.

I prefer a less "orange" colour than 3000 K
but
that is a matter of personal preference.
 
I do but am not a pro or electrician so always seek advice, opinions and confirmation before starting works.

Really? Here you claimed to be an Electrical Engineer. '
Yartin said
"Hi
I am not electrician, I am electrical engineer used to voltmeters, multimeters and oscilloscopes."
 
Really? Here you claimed to be an Electrical Engineer. '
Yartin said
"Hi
I am not electrician, I am electrical engineer used to voltmeters, multimeters and oscilloscopes."
However,
that was in

(You should have posted the "Link")
 

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