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The Photo (in Post #1) appears to show an IEC C7 Female connector and an IEC C2 Male connector. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320 You would need an adaptor with an IEC C8 Male connector. and an IEC C1 Female connector. If you cannot find one, you could make up a lead using an...

While one might install a "Batten Holder" on plaster board, I would not regard that as "good practice". At the very least, a batten should be installed between the adjacent ceiling joists, to support the fitting. This is one case where our North American "cousins" really do it better. They have...

I believe that you will find a device as simple as that to be quite well made - and safe. I have had no problem in buying similar (and more complicated) items. Often you will find that the same thing is sold "locally", under another name and many times the price !

This may be of interest...

You may find this this to be of interest. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006425559627.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.261b38dayXg4tQ&mp=1#nav-specification The UK version contains a fuse and the reverse position of the Australian Pin-Sockets ensures that the Line and Neutral are connected to the...

OK. BUT Consider https://www.diynot.com/diy/attachments/1738000557204-png.370919/ (From where did this come ?) There is still a circuit from the Neutral to the PE Conductor and back to the Neutral/Earth connection point, under these test button conditions This circuit is in parallel with the...

No, you are not talking rubbish. However, if it was caused by a loose connection at the screw terminal, one would expect to see much of the insulation melted close to the connection point, with less melting further along the wire from that point - due to increasing heat dissipation.

Well, NO. You wrote "the current through the N side of the RCD will also be the same (as the current in the Line) whether or not there is a downstream N-E fault." A "downstream N-E fault" will place the PE Conductor in parallel with the Neutral. If (say) they are both the same CSA, the...

It is a Chinese plug, not an Australian plug. The Chinese now use the same style of plug as Australia/New Zealand (with minor differences in the dimensions) but they have not seen fit to utilize Half-Insulated Line and Neutral Pins. (Argentina also uses the same type of plug but their the Line...

However, they do make Intermediate Switches and fit them to Wall-Plates of several antique brass styles. e. g. https://gandhelectrical.co.uk/products/finishes/brass/antique-brass/victorian?type=switch https://gandhelectrical.co.uk/products/finishes/brass/antique-brass/contour Have you asked if...

Since JohnD is in the Cook Islands, he has access to Australian/New Zealand Switches and Socket-Outlets - and related products. The fully insulated Face-Plates and screws of these devices do not require Earthing and there is no Earth connection possible, except to the Earth Pin of the...

4.7uF 400V capacitors are readily available.

Why would you do such a thing? What are you hoping to achieve by that? A fluorescent fitting could be replaced by a LED Panel - of similar size and equal (or greater) luminosity.

As The device is a Charge Point not a Charger - which is in the Vehicle. Leave it where it is and get a new one when you move.

The First Diagram illustrates a probable existing switching arrangement. You could just remove the First (or Last) 2-Way switch and leave the Intermediate switch acting as a 2-way (Second Diagram) If you wish to move one 2-Way switch (and remove the Intermediate switch), the wiring will be as...

Again, that is your opinion - and I did not suggest Dual PAR 38s - pointing down a "ginnel" - which is a new word that I have learned.

If this is a Ceiling light and NOT a Mirror light (working from a Transformer), it is likely that that is where you have a loose (Line or Neutral) connection, which is heat sensitive OR the connection at any such Transformer is where the fault is located.

You have but few posts and your questions indicate that you may have little experience in this area. (Sorry) LED strip-lights are designed to work on a certain DC Voltage. (12 V or 24 V - usually.) If you reduce this Supply Voltage (via a dimmer) they will dim. The description on the device...

Really? (Many are still available, judging from https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=par38+led&crid=2RGD17YJK1AD0&sprefix=par38+led+,aps,357&tag=diynotcom-21&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 ) Beauty (or ugliness) is in the eye of the beholder! Why would you consider that the PAR 38 Flood Light on the Right looks...

As EFLImpudence amended See https://flameport.com/electric/lighting_circuits/lighting_ceiling_rose.cs4 The BLUE Wire from the Switch is the Switched Line (NOT NEUTRAL) and should be identified with Brown tubing.