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Screwfix seem to have a good deal on the wiser 2 channel that would do hot water and the main heating zone, but no control of my upstairs "sub zone" which doesn't have a thermostat as it's just a second 2 port valve that's switched by the second htg channel on my existing 3 channel programmer...

That's just for me and the wife to play the up and down game with. The important bit's hidden under the stairs - she doesn't even know it exists and just thinks we live in a cold house:

I don't want to replace the TRVs, the existing valves are all new anthracite ones to match the rads. It's just the basic on/off and temperature stuff I'm after. The ground floor is one lounge and one 50m² open plan area that just needs to be maintained at a selected temperature when on.

Can anyone recommend a smartish heating control? I have a heat only boiler with a cylinder and 2 heating zones controlled by 2 x 2 port valves - but the second zone (upstairs) is just slaved off the downstairs zone ( no separate stat, just means while downstairs is on we can switch upstairs on...

I'm fitting a few used radiators to my system and while they seem pretty clean I know there's going to be some rust inside simply because they've been sat empty for a while. I'm looking for a decent magnetic cleaner that will be easy to fit to my horizontal return pipe, and if it exists, -...

Where are you going? Through that lower hole and up? Realistically, given that it's inside and less likely to freeze than the rest of the pipe I'd just tape some lagging round it and backfill the hole below the slab with sand.

There are regs about the pipe being at least 750mm down but not much point as the existing doesn't seem to be. Internally it should be ducted and insulated if it's a suspended floor. Presumably it'll just go in the same route as the old one.

My tyre place cleans them up for a fiver. You need to find your local backstreet place that does taxis.

Nice roll of sellotape. Bought this highly recommended thing the other day and found this ridiculous little spout on the end of it.

Just throw wood, screws, glue and some angle iron at it - they're only made the way they are to use the absolute minimum of materials.

I'd seek a second opinion - he must think the reinforcement will fail in some way when you cut it - but I can't see how? Perhaps leave a short section on a nib in your half. Otherwise a bigger extension.and convert the centre area to an office/utility/WC.

Instructions on the tub - I think slurry is 5 cement to 1 slurry, mortar is 3:1 sharp sand to cement with whatever SBR the instructions say - it adds strength, water resistance, flexibility and stickyness.

A slit blade in a grinder would do it (you could make a jig if your hands aren't that steady. If you have a chop saw a stainless blade would do it.

I did my slightly sunken garage a few years ago One SBR is pretty much the same as another. The instructions should tell you how to use it as a tanking slurry and as a waterproof mortar additive. I used 3:1 sharp sand and cement, my fillet was about 2" deep and high. The working time is short...

Pictures, details about the wall - cavity/solid/external/internal, services (pipes, cables) on the wall etc.

As above, replace the fillet inside and outside and add to the steps. Use cement SBR slurry as a tanking/bonding agent and as a waterproofer in your mortar mix. You need to be thorough and methodical in your preparation and work and be aware that SBR only has a short working time. The fact that...

You can go through the roof - depending on the roof.

One of the best things you can get for this situation is this stuff: Unfortunately it's not technically designed for the purpose - its made for roof decks. If laid on a flat concrete floor it's Incredibly rigid. In terms of your project - it's quite common for councils and HA's to sell off...

If you want to sell the house why change a well maintained working boiler? If you want to because you think it will make it more sellable then maybe try one of those online box slinger types - Boxt.

You need to step back for a minute and have a good look at the entire property. I don't really understand what "remediation" is, but if it (including "wall insulation") was carried out in 2003 and the place subsequently became riddled with mould I would question what work was done and to what...