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Not so.

Why not talk to the technical people at MIRA ? They are very good and will, in all likelihood, tell you exactly what you need.

http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=139498 :?

Plastic push fit pipes and joints seemed a good idea to a workmate when doing his bathroom and installing a shower. That was until he was told to go home as his house was flooded. It seems that the water board cut off the water mains in his estate and when they turned it back on again his...

Is it ok to fit these items, or a shower fan/light combined, on the ceiling above a shower or is it better to locate them adjacent to the shower enclosure ? I was thinking they may deteriorate over time with the moisture from the shower. Any thoughts?

I recently fitted a bath to my new bathroom installation. It was a job I worried about. When the tilers set a date to tile the pressure was on. First of all make sure the legs are fitted at the recommended height for the bath panels. Ensure a good amount of sealant around the edges of the...

The expert tilers will know of this, but I was left a very useful tool for drilling holes in tiles. Basically it is a small template with a variety of popular drill hole sizes with a small suction pad and lever attached. The pad is moistened and the hole is positioned over the centre line of...

You appear to be doing a similar project to me, although its my bathroom I am doing. I drilled 8mm holes through porcelain tiles tonight. I used a bosch drill suitable for masonry and tiles. As has been said, I took my time and used plenty of water to cool the bit, every 5-10 seconds was needed...

Yes, justed fitted the same shower trap. Hole has to be big enough for all of trap to be cleared as TT has advised.

I have no doubt the screws method is fine. But equally as good is using annular shank nails. Hammered every 150mm or so. Much less effort and just as effective.

I am currently doing the exact same with a 1000mm vanity unit. The pipe work and waste pipe will be visible in the centre of the unit when the doors are open. Only the drawers on either side have plywood at the rear. white backing, the cupboards do not. You can't see the rear anyway. I have...

Why not explain your intention to him. It sounds dodgy to me, any blockage, and your bath waste pipe will fill with waste from WC.

I got the BAL WP 1 Showerproofing kit (coating (4.5Kg bucket), polyester tape (10m x 100mm roll), polyester matting (1m x 1m piece), BAL Prime APD (500 mL bottle) for £45 lthis month. You must be able to get it cheaper

Yes, the Pressur Relief Device, has gone. It will need replaced, fairly straightforward. It might have happened when you adjusted the controls, or maybe something else caused it.

I have read many posts advising to use it and more posts deriding its use. What is the purpose of it ?

Doubt it could be condensation. A leaky pipe could be the reason.

I am on my 3rd T80si shower (3rd one being a Zante, a T80 in all but name at nearly 50% the cost. I would bin Triton, as I have done for my new bathroom, and move to MIRA showers.

The bath waste I just fitted didn't leak at the overflow, only at the trap seal and the waste backnut seal. However, I may add a drop of silicone just to be safe. The overflow will be under full pressure every time the bath is emptied, will it not ?

I wonder if you can give me some advise. I installed a new bath with Clicker waste. I had two leaks, 1) first leak from the bath trap / clicker waste seal. I fitted a new o-ring and gave it a few more turns seems to be OK. 2) second leak appears to be coming from the backnut/ clicker...

I am just about to have my bathroom tiled. Of the 3 tilers giving me prices, all said they would use BAL Whitestar in the shower area.