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I'm thinking I could get some wide, planed timber for the door stops (top and bottom), wide enough for them to come out flush with the walls and tacking architrave onto them. Probably have to concede on the left-hand side and fill with grout. Any good?

Just found the fitting. Gonna go with compression. Ta.

I have some new 22mm bath taps I need to get onto my existing 15mm copper pipe but my 22mm nuts are too large for the taps. What's the nut on the end of a flexi called? Can I get them as part of a reducer/isolator? The taps themselves are described as "Pipe Size: 22 mm (3/4" BSP)" and the nut...

Just had my Vailant combi serviced last night but shortly after the gas men left the light on the Honeywell HC60NG reciever began flashing red indicating a loss of comms. to the Honeywell CM61NG thermostat. I've tried re-pairing following the instructions but had no luck as the reciever doesn't...

Just labour, but potentially more he said. Boiler's separated by a single brick wall.

What's the going rate to install a 15mm flow and return to a radiator to an adjacent room roughly 3m away from the boiler? Boiler's in the kitchen and flow and return needs running to the extension which I've converted into a bathroom - both on the same floor. I've got a modern Vailant combi...

I have a couple of sheets of spare plasterboard and used it to replace the plywood on the ceiling in my downstairs bathroom. I'm looking to renovate and wanted to use either XPS or Marmox boards on the walls, skim the ceiling and halfway down the walls to a dado rail for wallpaper. I'd quite...

Used an endoscope but it was sadly to short at 2m and kept orienting itself towards the walls of the pipe. I dug 4m down from the beginning of the pipe today so I should be in a good position to find the piece of boss. Any ideas on how I'd cut and patch this clay pipe up? I'm thinking about...

Yeah that'd be where the guttering drains to I believe. The stack is ****ed for the most part - seals are brittle and falling apart. If I'm gonna take it out to make adjustments I may as well replace it with a good cast iron one. Gonna go ahead and bore a hole out and fish. If that doesn't...

I tried replacing a leaking boss today, unscrewed my 40mm waste pipe and tried getting the boss out to no avail - it must've been inserted into the pipe from either end before tightening. The boss fell about 4m and presumably into the soil pipe. I haven't connected the new boss so there's...

Yeah I think this is the best option. Gonna see if I can get one the same colour/texture as my shower panel interface.

I think brushed aluminium would look better. I know you can pick up custom laser-cut signs on ebay. Been there done that and have the cracked plasterboard and dodgy cuts of plasterboard to fill to prove it.

I've been a little liberal in the size of my core bit while chasing in the shower cable. I'm thinking I'll have to find some sort of aluminium plate i can stick behind the shower to match its face unless there's something else I can try. Tiles are ceramic.

Silly question as I'm sure the tape is waterproof but is it typical for you to go as far down as possible?

I had my bathroom ceiling skimmed about one month ago. There's no tape in-between the ceiling and the walls and I'm concerned about movement creating cracks and moisture getting through into the loft. I've had a go at trying to sand away the plaster to make space for tape but ended up covering...

I have a square frame made of 2x4s on which to fit a bit of 3/4" plywood then a shower tray. I've had a go using packers on the batons as I've seen a builder do this once but it throws something else off. Should I level the tray off with mortar instead?

I've dabbed on two moisture resistant plasterboards on an external window wall of my Victorian property's bathroom which I intend to tile over. The wall is composed of two layers of brick without a cavity and was primed with one coat of PVA. Everything's solid - I used a generous amount of dab...

Won't the moisture boards do the job? I won't be doing the skimming myself, so I'll leave this to the plasterer after jointing.

I'm looking to overboard a lathe and plaster ceiling with moisture board in my Victorian property then have it skimmed. The eaves of the roof cause the ceiling to curve. I want to stagger the boards but this curve makes it difficult. I'm thinking I should just run a board along the entire area...

I have a bit of studding roughly the same size as the bathroom studs leftover from another excursion but not enough to use entire lengths. Can I chop them up into smaller pieces and attach them to the sides of the studding tight with two screws each or do they need to be entire lengths?