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We ordered (based on a sample) some solid oak flooring, and the colour doesn't match the sample at all. The manufacturer is saying it's what they would expect, it's the same flooring as the sample is. Is purchasing any and all wood flooring subject to this, or are we being 'fobbed off'?

Yes 100mm concrete on top of 50mm MOT. but have 150mm boards for shuttering... Once finished 80mm concrete (and the MOT) will be below ground level. Yes using a DPM over the MOT before concrete.

No. 25-50mm above ground level,

What implications are there if MOT type 1 is laid and flattened inside formwork? I know it's unorthodox, but I have 150mm planks for shuttering, and propose 100mm concrete base on top of MOT type 1.

Nothing excessive in terms of electricity consumption. It just seems a step backward to have a 'new' version of something that makes noise for longer than the item it replaced.

We have a new Hotpoint Fridge freezer, which replaced a 14 year old one which we had from new. Both frost free too. The new one works fine, and have even measured temperatures with thermometers inside to check it reaches the fridge and freezer temperatures it's set to (4 and -18) and it does...

We have a utility room with a flat roof, and it's clearly had a leak in the past as there's a bulge in part of the plaster ceiling. As we will replace the felt roof sometime, I wondered what order we should deal with the plastboard roof and any insulation (currently it's uninsulated). Would it...

I'm looking to purchase a house and as it has a 30 degree pitched roof, I'd like to utilise as much of it as possible for storage. The current insulation is 100mm thick fibreglass rolls. I'd like keep 100mm thickness, but maximise the insulation in that space (above the 1st floor ceiling...

Thank you for the advice. That’s allowed some adjustment but not required height adjustment. From the front of the door, the left edge is a bit lower than the right so the gutter at the bottom catches the bottom of the door frame.

I have a UPVC door which has dropped a small amount so it rubs along the bottom of the door frame, after looking at some 'how to' guides on on the web, I am not making any progress and my hinges look exactly the same as the examples given. My (three) hinges look this: Any advice or tips please?

I think that the (fibreglass) bath is flexible in it's nature, and with enough force, i.e. a bath full of water and a person added, it just has a certain amount of flex that has always caused small tears in the silicone seal - as soon as that happens everytime there's a shower water gets trapped...

Have used Soudal before. First bath use a week after it had been applied small tears could be seen between the bath and the sealant. The bath has always been filled before applying fresh silicone to clean and dry surfaces. Have not tried CT1 before so perhaps that would be worth a try before...

I have an ongoing issue with the silicone sealing edge along my bath against the wall. Firstly whichever anti mould sealant I've used, they always go black after about 4-6 months. I've tried 5 different brands, from recommendations to reviews supposedly the 'best', etc. Secondly, my bath does...

Dear all, Does anyone know an alternative to silicone sealant (to run around the sides of a bath)? I have now applied on several occasions silicone sealant of varying brands and seemingly none last very long. Either black mould appears, despite being applied very smoothly and neatly, or small...

I have a Hudson Reed Tec Concealed Shower Valve tap that's recently become very stiff to operate. It's a single clockwise motion to turn on the water. Approx every half turn the valve is very stiff. After some force it frees up again, till another half turn, then frees up again, and so on...