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Would slime help if the issue is a bad contact with the rim on a tubeless tyre, or the only option then to have the tyre removed to clean up the rim as @Mottie mentioned? I assume you cannot simply deflate the tyre fully and push it out of the way while you work

Thanks all. My understanding was they're tubeless but I'm not certain - certainly if it is tubed they replaced that too. Sorry if it's a silly question but how can I tell? It might be the 4 wheels are not all the same setup, wouldn't be surprised. I've used 'slime' on my bike once, is that the...

I have an old countax ride on mower (c300 I think). The rear left tyre was constantly deflating so we had it replaced brand new... But now it still leaks... Over a week or goes totally flat which can't be good for it. Is it more likely I got another puncture or that the wheel has an issue and...

Think this overcomplicates it somewhat. When I hear timber experts talk it basically boils down to: wet timber won't last. Ensuring ventilation and avoiding prolonged soaking is key. Wood doesn't mind getting wet as long as it can dry out. Hence air/rain gaps behind cladding. Obviously the...

Just get pressure treated timber, way better than paint. but timber doesn't need treating, timber cladding can last 100 years untreated and weathered

I liked the idea of boarding your side of the fence and painting that. The neighbour can let theirs weather/rot or choose to paint it if they like. Leaning over and painting from your side sounds liable to spill paint on their property which isn't within your rights, especially if there's...

I kind of take it as a challenge to get my strength up to it as it's tiredness rather than injury, but I have seen that and heard it's amazing.

Yeah, if I can get half an hour use that's enough, I tend to do a bit each week not a huge load. With the long reach tools my shoulders give out long before the battery!

Well they do electric brushcutters, I think the FSA130 (not got the page open to check). They have weird fixed plastic blades that look like drone rotors, do these have the oomph?

@JBR I have the AP long reach hedge trimmer and long reach pole saw and both are excellent. So is the AP chainsaw though it gets through the battery quickly... I'm unsure if thick weeds and brambles are something a battery model can handle yet... At least without the backpack battery which I...

I currently use the DeWalt XR strimmer around my 1/2 acre and it's pretty good on grass, but struggles with big weeds and is no match for brambles. I've thought for a while about getting a classic Stihl petrol unit, but was wondering how the electric ones stack up, especially as I've previously...

Oh thanks, I hadn't realised this was possible. Affordable too for the more basic ones. So you've buying just a 'sandwich' the same all the way through, in this case glued strips of wood with an exterior veneer? Presumably with the will and the skill I could even cut a hole for a glazed panel...

This converted greenhouse has a maximum of 1900mm to the beam across the door, and only about 1800mm actual head room below the eaves. Building regs seem to stipulate minimum 1981mm for new houses, that doesn't concern me but it means I can't find anywhere selling doors shorter than that, and...

Useful to know especially considering they are a 10th the price of snap-on. I found a vintage one on FB, a son selling his late father's with tools. Includes quite a few genuine snap-on spanners among everything else but all Imperial so no idea if they are off any use... Shame as they cost a...

Thanks, yeah I know you can get Snap On in the UK but not sure they are a stand out brand here. Harbor Freight are not the same quality at all as I understand it. I've seen a bunch of reviews of their stuff, in the US at least... Ok but not lifetime products

I'm interested in finding pro grade tool chests 2nd hand but I'm not up on the makes in the UK, only us-made like snap on. Who are the brands you'd see used in garages, etc in the UK that are worth keeping an eye out for? Are they a good investment compared to buying new, cheaper stuff from...

Thanks for the tip - so would a simpler 5 wire fence be better?

Just regular C or L 8/80/15 and maybe a 3mm top-wire. Basic lighter-weight stuff, all 2-3mm with posts probably 3m spacing or so from what I read online.

I need to put up a straight 50m run of stock fencing (just to buffer our boundary from a single horse in the adjoining field) and haven't done more than very small sections before, bodging it without proper tools. I see several of options for tensioning - gripples, ratchet tensioners, barrel...

Yeah I've tried banging them back and forth. Even with my ratchet handle, it's only just possible to get them to turn... They don't really seem to "break free" they're just really really tight which I did odd that only about 20-30mm is actually in the wood. Unsure what could make them so stiff