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Thanks Wayners. So seal the plasterboard then once tiled and grouted use BAL sealer to seal the tiles? I’m using ultra s1 spes flexible adhesive and Mapei ultra colour plus grout if that helps. How often would you screw the plasterboard onto the masonry if you were using plasterboard adhesive?

Hi I’ve got some of the blue plasterboard being delivered tomorrow. I know the majority of advice is to tile onto cement board. But hoping it’s going to be quicker and a bit cheaper using the moisture board where there is no direct water contact. I’m just ripping things out and I’m amazed...

Interesting. Downstairs I actually get pretty low humidity. Regularly in the high 30’s. I’m wondering if the window vents will be enough. I’ve got some wet rot hardener, worth putting a bit of that over it? I’ve got 2 pack filler and loads of zinsser bin so assume that’d be a good start...

Hi I’ve got a velux style window at the top of my stairs going into a dormer conversion. There is quite a bit of black mould around it. Most likely because the vents have been closed. So I’ve opened those up but still need to get rid of the mould and sprayed white vinegar onto it. It looks...

Thank you. This seems to have done the trick. Really annoyed I didn’t try that before replacing the valve! At least I know for next time now. Cheers.

Microbore 8mm with a reducer to make it 15mm for the valve.

I’ve replaced the whole valve and direction isn’t an issue. But still got the noise. Could it be done burrs on the pipe or something?

Good shout on the direction. I’ll have a look, thanks. Useful tip checking which gets hot first. It’s a brand new trv and it made no difference to the sound so I assume it can’t be that.

Hi I’ve read some threads on this but still unsure. Only one of my radiators in the house does this. There is a high pitched whistling noise. Like an old kettle sort of noise. It disappears when I turn the trv down. I’ve tried replacing the valve but it still does it. It also makes a tapping...

Thanks all. Ordered a different waste off Amazon and that fit much better. The silicone wasn’t too bad to get off the previous one either. The tip on wd40 was great. Took 2 mins to take it off and I’ve not put it on the new one. Did try to use the basin mate but the thread wasn’t long enough.

Haha. That was me. The thread was a bit weird. I think some of the issue could be the waste itself. The YouTube video said to silicone it so was just following that but the thread did slant to the side a bit I’ve got a basin mate for when I replace it next. Good to know. I might try a different...

Yeah think you’re all right. Just got a mcalpine waste and it’s fitting much better. Annoyingly it’s not Matt black on the top like everything else in the bathroom. So might try ordering a different one off Amazon and see if that works better than the one I’ve got. Any tips on removing the...

It’s almost like the thread is too small for the trap. You can wobble it off. But should both be 40mm. The leak is coming under the nut where the blue arrow is pointing. Everything above it appears dry so I’m assuming it’s the looseness of the connection. All the parts are brand new. Wouldn’t...

Hey all I’ve just fitted a new basin and the thread on the waste is leaking. It’s coming out underneath the nut that the trap is screwing on to. It’s a mcalpine trap so I don’t think it’s that. However, when I screw the trap on. It doesn’t go tight it just keeps turning. I tried some ptfe but...

It’s cladding on the outside (dormer conversion) so will go with the mastic option. Thanks!

Sorry, I might not be being clear. There is a metal cylinder that runs through the wall. There is no gap between the outside circumference of this and the wall. The actual flue itself is a much thinner pipe that runs through the metal cylinder. So there is a gap between the flue and the metal...

Yeah it’s got foam going round it. So no issues there. I guess it lets a draft in not being flush as well. As the flue goes through the metal cylinder but with a big gap round it.

Hey all Not sure what the part is called but there is a big gap between it and the metal part of the flue. The reason is that the metal casing is sticking out at the bottom more than the top. Is this an issue? I could cut the metal back a bit so it’s flush but not sure how necessary it is...

Hey Unfortunately not. I think the only thing to be done which I haven’t done myself is just fill it full of mastic. Yeah clips look similar. They may be quite brittle because of the age so warm water may help. What worked for me was taking the front face out first. Then tapping it down at...

Have you got an example? My worry is that it’s going to be difficult to fit around the little alcove but I assume I’d have to stick some corner beading on and silicone it pretty heavily so water doesn’t get behind it? Is there not a special paint that’s waterproof?