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Does the flow pipe from the boiler enter the top or the bottom of the heat-exchanger coil in the tank?

Fixitflav beat me to it. I don't see how convection as described would occur in the usual layout.

Any condensation on the cold pipe might show up on a kitchen roll test?

I've recently been experiencing occasional 'low pressure' warnings and heater cut off with my shower. Only in the last couple of months. I do wonder if the water companies have been instructed by the authorities to reduce pressure generally, to save water, given that the UK's water supplies are...

If your invention is a product, then bear in mind that as soon as you put it on the market there will be a Chinese copy of it on sale at half the price a week later !

Ensure the support-framing of the T&G has diagonal bracing to prevent door sag.

Contacts 85/86 would normally be the relay coil terminals. Shorting those ought to blow the fuel pump fuse. I'm surprised you still get ~12V at the pump.

If the fuel pump normally operates intermittently and you were running it continuously for a prolonged period its coil may have burnt out? An Ohmmeter test of the disconnected pump coil should indicate its state.

ChatGPT (probably other AI tools) has a problem in that it cannot reliably tell fact from fiction. It admits it if you ask it. So its responses aren't guaranteed to be accurate.

If you copy and paste the link you can see that it gets redacted. So looks like its's down to DIYnot to fix.

Small grinding wheel on a Dremel? Centre punch if thread is small diameter?

..... and if you do manage to reconnect the wire, make sure it and any joints are well insulated from nearby metal.

+1 regarding the screwdriver slot. The rod in post #5 seems to show one.

If the thin wire was part of an individual circuit then yes, that could be the culprit. If it was just one strand of a multi-strand heavy-current cable then no.

Are you absolutely sure you connected the battery with the correct polarity?

...... or a tack-lifter.

If you can't buy a replacement diaphragm, a complete new syphon is pretty cheap. Or you could cut a new diaphragm from polythene sheet.

Next to each metal hinge there seems to be a plastic clip. Is that removable? Might reveal/enable some release mechanism.

Plain rubber sheet should be sufficient. That grid pattern looks to be superfluous decoration.

Looks as though 7 courses of bricks have been dislodged. Hopefully the post #2 method can rotate those back into position.