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@evildrome Just for info, those isolating valves are de-mountable metal push fits similar to this, and yes they can be taken apart - but its a bit harder than plastic push fits as the copper ring needs to be pressed in evenly to release the pipe grips and kept pressed in whilst the pipe is...

Suggestions: Nut splitter - (e.g. 535HP at Screwfix) but I suspect your space around the nut might be too restricted even for a small one, and you will struggle with working space. Bulldog BDX - if your valve hasn't completely failed so you're not in a hurry, this penetrating fluid is much...

Ours is like that too - and DOES fill OK from the F&E tank as you expected yours would. Worth checking to see what check/gate valves you have on your system. We have one on the mains cold input to the F&E tank to make it easier to shut off a defective ball valve - and that's pretty standard...

Currently re-fitting my parents bathroom for assisted showering. This is onto an unbreachable concrete floor so I need to run a pipe out the side of the (raised) shower tray and box it in. There are two variants of tray I'm looking to buy, where these trays have a built in anti-slip surface and...

@dazlight Looks like Ardex NA can be used over bitumen adhesives too. Thanks!

Hi - just wondered if anyone had any particular recommendations for self levelling compounds for a concrete floor? I have used them occasionally before, but find the products I've used go off far too quickly so it has been a full on race to trowel them out to avoid a disaster. I'm prepared to...

Need to stick a piece of plasterboard to the underside of a concrete lintel in a window reveal. Have some plasterboard adhesive ready to dot and dab it, but just wondered if it will stick straight on or whether it needs any surface prep such as PVA etc. Thanks.

That's what I call a nice patina :giggle: But I take your point - I'll have a dig about and see what is on the market.

I'm the same when it comes to expense. I have Makita and DeWalt tools for frequent/heavy duty use. Less frequent use I have Bosch or B&D, and occasional is the cheapest I can get that will survive the job, and this definately falls into the last category for me.

Yeah - it's the weight that worries me for the tiling bit. I'd rather go down in weight to something that will just about cope with the core drilling as I don't expect to ever have to do anything more than the 40mm. This still has a safety clutch but not sure whether it will have the grunt...

Yes, the Titan has a safety clutch. What sort of power is the Bosch you use?

Just about do a bathroom project for my parents. Managed without needing an SDS Plus drill/chisel up to now as I don't normally do enough of the sort of work that needs one and/or I have the luxury of taking my time - but in this case, I need to get the job done much faster and I have three...

@SUNRAY Thanks for the pointer on Triton - it seems they do a range of thermostatic care focused showers called Omnicare so I'll have a look at those as a possible alternative.

Thanks and I agree on the feeble from my perspective too (we're running a 2.0 bar Monsoon pump in our house which is about right for our taste) but the requirement here isn't that sort of shower. Were making it suitable for carer assisted showering if needs be in the future - so there is a...

Looking to put in an electric shower for my parents who are in their 80s, and the Mira Advance Flex looks a good option for us given the friendliness and clarity of the controls for my mum whose sight is going a bit, and she has arthritis in her hands - plus the max temp can be configured on...

@crank39 Just googled it and I think you're spot on. It had something printed on the sealing face but it was so faint, I couldn't make sense of it - and I see QLON in some of the photos I've now found. The social housing makes sense in this case too. What threw me was the bits of foam that...

These are the seals in question. When the door is open, they are pretty substantial and actually uncompress to around 20mm from the timber frame. At the side of the door where the original seal is missing, when the door is closed, there is a 10mm gap where the original seal would have...

Thanks!

Thanks - I'm fairly sure I have a bit spare in the loft somewhere, so I can confirm the top layer thickness but that doesn't sound too bad an option.

Our south facing sunroom has Maple engineered flooring which has been down for around 15 years and has been bleached in the bright sunlight. The skirting was put on after it was laid - which gave a really nice neat finish without bits of quadrant, but makes it a more difficult job to replace...