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I would love to try Asterisk, especially given the money it could save us, but the cost of the card is prohibitive (I'm wary of getting so far then having to give up thereby wasting money).

Still looking at options. Had a few quotes in for Trixbox, Mitel and iPECS. Still to talk to more suppliers re hosted VoIP although conversations on the phone have not inspired confidence (call quality with two providers was not great). One bit of good news we've had is we may be able to get...

:D

Got it done last week - first time doing this, not for the faint hearted. Given the weight of the boards I started to think it should be a professional that puts them up so they don't come down on me head one night. It worked out well re landing edges on the joists. I did put noggings in for...

You might get a fast drying time with the zinnser (check the tin) to allow you get started on the emulsion.

It might need a lot of zinnser given it's a hall and stairs. You could just coat it with oil undercoat but that's going to leave a smell/fumes for days and a difficult job in the future if the walls do need to be stripped.

Is there a lot of the colour leaching through - just spots here and there or mostly all over?

I think we should be looking at a hosted option as well so, yes, any recommendations would be welcome. Thanks.

Thanks for that c4chan. I did look briefly at asterix which looks great but would require a fair bit of time from us to get up to speed on it (limited resources).

I've stripped a lime plaster/lath ceiling back to 9x3 joists and will be replacing with 12.5 Fireline tapered board then taping (it won't be skimmed). The joists are centred at 18" but I'd like to double-board it. Should I fit noggings(?) or will two layers of 12.5 Fireline be ok on the 18"...

Thanks for that Dannyboi. It's all new to me so I have a fair bit of homework to do (great to have something concrete to go on though!).

The paper absorbs the paste and prevents it from drying out too quickly. There are probably lots of factors that determine how long the stuff needs to be left on before removing the paper. I would leave it on as long as possible without letting it dry. I had to apply the stuff with a filling...

Many thanks for the replies - it will take me a bit longer to research these but great to have recommendations.

There are two types depending on material to be stripped. I've used both on old pine wood and found the red one more effective. Sorry I can't be more specific but I just gave up trying to get to grips with the names. If you do use it you might want to experiment with it first to see how long...

Hi there, I work for a charity that will be moving to new premises later this year. We will be looking to install a new phone system but, as we don't have in-house expertise (I'm the closest as I work in IT), we need to ask around for suggestions so I thought I'd try here. So, would you be...

You could try peelaway (or stripaway - not sure what it's called now). Unlikely to be cheaper than nitromors but might save you some time.

6mm may not be much but I would prefer to have it smooth - can't explain why - even if it means sacrificing the heat mat.

Hello, we're removing wooden floorboards in a bathroom to get it ready for tiling. The tiler recommended 18ml ply when he came to price the job but wasn't aware that we would like to install an electric heat mat. I spoke to him briefly today and he reckoned 6ml would be required for the...

As a decorator I would second Tufnall's advice although I prefer to finish with an up stroke regardless of grain direction. Ambient temperature and therefore moisture content in the garage may be a factor in not getting the finish you want. If it were possible to do the prep work in the...

Thanks Lee. That's the style we're after but with a 3-way diverter (not too many of them about). We've been looking at separate heads, like the one you have, but would like to make sure we'll end up with a decent shower. We'd prefer concealed as well. Well done on completing your project...