Search results

You can use Grip Fill to glue down flat plate based door profiles, just put some weight on while the adhesive sets. There are faster actingbadhesives available like Flexi-Fix too. The top picture is what you need for doorways to carpets, depends what the other floorings are that run off the...

Cheap feltback carpet or Carpet Tiles.

If you are thinking of glueing Engineered direct to the subfloor, you need to take moisture readings with a Protimeter or preferably a hydrometer and the subfloor needs to per perfectly smooth. The Screed you use to level the floor needs to be suitable for the bonding of Engineered Wood and...

I’d have the seam and choose an 80% Wool, 20% man made fibre carpet, at that budget, something like Cormar Pembroke 50oz Twist, I’d also buy it from a quality independent and not Tapi/Carpet Right I’d spec it on a firm 9mm puFoam underlay or even better, something like Ulster Axfelt65 which...

Start in the top left corner of the Living Room.

Running the carpet the 'wrong' way will just mean the carpet pile will lay across the top step/riser and down the landing so the carpet may look a different shade to the rest of the stairs. In addition you may find a little premature wear on the top step, looks like that carpet is an all...

Click LVT has a terrible reputation in the flooring trade although QuickStep is probably one of the best. The issue is that it’s a thin plastic board with plastic joints. You have to make sure the subfloor is FLAT no matter what the manufacturers claim regarding coping with uneven floors, the...

Glue down LVT on Ply will be more sound absorbing than Laminate. Avoid Click LVT. Carpet is of course the most sound absorbing material to install.

Assuming the screed that he has laid is not a Calcuim Suplhate or Anhydrate screed, then yes the floor needs to be very dry, tested with a protimeter or hydrometer box before laying the wood. You could speed up installation with a liquid DPM treatment and screed top coat. Even if you were...

I think Stairrods UK Ramp profiles max out at 20mm. You might be able to make a 21mm Engineered Oak Ramp work? Or Treadplates UK can definatly make what you want through your local Treadplates UK supplier (most quality flooring shops will be able to help.)

Be sure to specify the correct combined underlay and carpet Tog rating for these products over the UFH product that you choose or again, this can cause issues with how efficient the UFH will be. Carpets usually need to be laid on UFH specific underlays.

Avoid click Vinyl. Glue Down Luxury Vinyl Tiles like Amtico/Karndean etc would be perfect fitted with High Temperature adhesive and with the correct floor prep as you need no expansion gaps around the edge of the floor or through doorways. If you want real wood you can float an engineered wood...

Duralay do the Timbermate XL for concrete floors and Multi Tex for wood floors although you are unlikely to have an issue with Timbermate XL.

Multitex is/was TimbermateXL without the mositure Barrier in-built, both are still the best Laminate/Engineered underlay you can buy.

Leave a small gap to eliminate squeaking, 9mm SP101 will be perfect. Be careful and allow as much expansion as you can get away with.

Not much can be done about the floor gaps IF the skirts are level, however, the fitting of the skirtings and the finish/mitres etc is clearly not acceptable.

As per Foxhole's post, if the company that supplies that cover plate can supply a right angle edge profile to fit the carpet against in 4m long, that may work for you.

That isn’t suitable for Laminate to Carpet Transition.

Looks good!

If it's on the end of the boards there's not so much expansion on the length of the boards so it can be a little tighter, if it's on the width then you'll need to allow as much as you can. I am not aware of any manufacturers of 4m long transitions, I think CAT max out at 2.7m as do Stairrods UK...