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What’s a rubber band in this situation?

I can slacken the tap nuts and reposition to make sure it’s central and the seal is positioned appropriately. Is there anything that can be fitted in to the tap to give it an extended nozzle? Also, should I apply some silicone around the tap?

Water shouldn’t seep through but it also shouldn’t collect at the base of the tap? Over time, this is probably testing the defense of the rubber tap seal? I think the issue wasn’t helped by the cartridge which was causing a small drip in the tap. I’ve now replaced both cartridges. But even...

I’ve got one of these and it’s not very clear from the picture but the nozzle is flat with the body of the tap. This means that even the slightest drip and even when you are turning the tap off, the last bit of water runs along the body and collects at the base of the tap. Some of this then...

Do they come in different sizes and are they easy to squeeze into place?

I replaced two sets of these door handles today. They were loose and just dropping down as opposed to springing back to the top position. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that this metal ring was broken in both of them Is this something that can easily be replaced or is it always a case of...

This tilt and turn window has a gap in the bottom right of the window. This is the hinge end and pictured from the outside. Can I fix this by doubling up the seal in these areas? If yes, what type of seal should I use for this? Thanks in advance.

I’ve had one of these in place for 10 years It was dripping inside along this rafter (marked in red): I had a look at the rubber seal and they seem fine but noticed that there is a slight gap at the top of the rafter here. There also seems to be some residue: I can see this residue on...

What size poly pins do you recommend for the battens here?

How do I use my 2 pole tester to check if a given switch or FCU is double pole?

Are screws with white caps an absolute no-no?

When cutting the slats with a circular saw to reduce the length, did you cut through the foam with the circular saw too or does that need to be cut away separately?

one more on this please: should I use a multi cutter or jigsaw to cut out the socket sections?

There's plenty of videos where people have been using the poly top pins in the recesses to hang this as soffit. I was thinking I could do the same? or use screws with white caps.

Let me start with, I own a lock-out kit and 2 probe tester. I use these for safe isolation. Curious - if a fitting has a FCU or there is a light fitting with a single switch cable, can you isolate here whilst someone keeps a look out? Is there inherently something in a light switch or a FCU...

Didn't realise until I started checking last night. I would have preferred a repair and not just for economic reasons but t needs to make some economic sense. Struggling in this instance.

Good point @ebee. The cut-out was going to cost around £15 and the shower cost me just over £40. It's a shame as it's not great for the environment but I am running the risk that it may not be the cut-out. There may be additional faults.

Yes cold water regardless of where the shower dial is. If it’s turned to hot, the pressured reduces ( like it did when. It worked) but the water is still cold. Does it still point to thermal cut out?

I’ve got a triton cara 8.5 kw shower that’s stopped providing hot water. It has a power supply and cables are well connected. I notice that there is no continuity between the screws I have circled in yellow. Is this likely to be the issue?