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Yes, I'll trade you for next week's lottery numbers. Flashband over any pipe joints, pipe to roof junction and any potential movement joints as reinforcement, then acrylpol over.

What does that mean? Black mould or water penetration?

Didn't your plan drawer detail the high risk areas? You need a slot cut for the cavity bridges, and insulation around the beam. Don't forget the cavity tray above.

Have you lived there from new? Were the walls insulated retrospectively before you purchased?

Some builders used a post-build blown in system on their developments, others may have used insulating blocks and relied on a whole house u-value calculation which did not require additional wall insulation. All retro fit installs should be recorded via a building regs notification.

You can't make the pipe penetration leak proof when the roof is in such a state Acrylpol (and flashband). Buy a big tin and do the whole roof.

The "proper" staircase would be more pertinent than the state of the loft rooms, as that implies that the rooms existed as rooms with an access - irrespective of any subsequent change in regulations or your refurbishment - which is not a conversion in context of planning law. Key dates would be...

Get stackable tool boxes

The fact that the blocks are hollow may be more pertinent than the compressive strength and even if 7N, may still require increased padstone, larger spreader plate or localised rebuilding with either solid blocks or filled voids. Make sure your engineer has factored hollow blocks in.

That's a relief. Just the exposed nail holes then :rolleyes:

Isn't that a missing slate and a cracked slate next to the cill?

Looks an OK job. Perhaps the tiles should be a little further off the wall to prevent the secrete gutter from blocking, but not the end of the world. However, you need to look up between the flashing and the bottom of the render to check if the flashing goes up behind the render or if there...

You can see the bottom line of the flashing, so it's a two-piece

Latent defect and contract claims are under common law, not a warranty claim. Under contract law, if valid, you would have 12 years to make a claim against the NHBC for their negligent inspections for the warranty - these are not and distinct from the building control inspections. Under...

DPC goes under the floor joists of timber floors, not at skirting level, and the joists or deck should not touch bare brick. The DPC should then step up to the surface level of any concrete floor, and the slab should be protected/separated by a DPM between it and any brickwork. You probably...

Done properly, your DPC patch will last many, many years. I can vouch for that. :sneaky: You could also glue the piece back in with a quality polymer mastic adhesive for aesthetics.

Looks like you need a stepped and horizontal cavity tray above the flashing. And weep holes. At 12 years old, you may just be in time to make a latent defect claim against the developer and/or the warranty provider (NHBC?).

Fake cavity tray to match the window?

Lol. A bodger. There are times when a surface water repellent may be appropriate, but it's never Thompsons - that's for DIY on your garden planters. If such a solution is to be done, then a silane/siloxane product is used and that costs 4x as much and lasts 20x as long as Thompdons. Where is...

You have a timber floor?