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It may be that the adjusting screw for the keeps are on a cam and thus move the keep completely in and thn out ( if that makes sense ). The keeps need to move closer to the inside of the house. Small adjustments is the key

Which camshaft are you thinking of adjusting ? I can only see hooks in ypur pics. Im guessing as you mention you've adjusted the keeps that you know full compression isnt actually achieved until the handle is pulled up and the lock engaged? ( you'd be surprised how many don't know this )

Unfortunately I don't think those can be adjusted.. @crank39 will know for sure. Failing that you may be able to toe and heel the door to lose the gap, plenty of videos on the likes of youtube

Ideally it either needs the hinge adjusting or replacing ( but the replacement will.depend on whether you change the correct part). Normally there is a small amount of adjustment on the pin ( I suspect it won't close this though ) . If you go down the line of ' seals ' then you may get away...

Ideally it should have had a knock on ( or wide outer frame ) as well , to keep it a little lower. Some would deem it ok if it was still openable

He is sort of right , yes without alteration the trickle vent would hit the reveal... rather than a knock on our supplier would use a ' wide outer frame' on the head of the frame to accommodate the vent, but sometimes this still won't be enough to clear the internal reveal. So the answer would...

Was the fitter the same person who surveyed them? If not its definetly not his fault, hes just fitted what he was given. Now , ill be honest there should always be an element of an expansion gap but personally I'd prefer to see, in this case, that the window went between the brick work...

If doing it with the lead over the cill, I'd seal under the lead where the cill meets the wall, effectively double sealing it

Best way and proper way would be removed the doors and wider cill, covering that gap up before the cill is fitted. Id say the lead tray wasnt big enough either. As goes fixing through the threshold , it's not ideal but providing they filled filled the holes with silicone before screwing the...

Totally agree with Crank, never seen self cleaning glass stay clean on its own

If you are after polished edges ( which looking at the location I'd be surprised if you aren't) , then yes 2 weeks is about standard turnround for rectangular/ square shapes, you mention a template, shapes do take loneger. A glass merchant should be able to cut mirror whilst you wait but unless...

Very few companies offer 6.4 now , to comply with Doc Q and PAS 24 it would need to be 6.8 Laminate anyway. Honestly 6.8 lami outer pane, 4mm Tough inner will be sufficient i would have thought. It all honestly depends how much you want to pay, triple glazing is much more expensive as you've...

Is this ground floor or first floor? Guessing first and also guessing that the wind can hit it fairly unobstructed ( eg across fields and no trees or buildings in the way? ) , then unfortunately with that type of product , yes the creaking and the glass movement would be expected. The pvc is...

Potentially sounds like the hinges, but I'd normally expect to see the gap on the back edge. A picture would make it clearer. I'm guessing when the window is open that the handle works perfectly OK?

That's an awful job on the outside. As mentioned that needs the cement taking out and a brick cut to fit and then mortared back in correctly. When the cement is out I'd also be checking that the end of the cill is sealed where the frame meets it ( NOT the gap at the front, as Opps says thats...

OK, definetly foam up that entire gap top to bottom. Use gun grade foam rather than a can , as those cans don't offer any 'speed/volume' control and ot can go everywhere! Then retrim. I'd also be checking the outside for any potential area for water to penetrate but to suspect it was...

You can use foam there but bear in mind most foam isnt waterproof. The close up photos don't help us with a location etc. We have no context as to the surroundings to be able to be able to comment on damp

Usually its just the centre gearbox that goes wrong, Millenco gearboxes can be unscrewed with either a Phillips screw or a torx ( depends on age ) . Maybe worth taking out the old lock , disconnecting the gearbox, check the top and bottom bolts slide and work , if so replace the gearbox ...

Do you mean the actual door lock? If so no Millenco wont be a straight swap, the door keeps are likely to be in the wrong place on the main lock , and if its just the gearbox on the lock , then the latch and deadbolt are likely to be different, as well as fixing points and how it operates the...

In the particular photo example the line has no use , being on the hinge side. Ideally your frames shouldn't be ' warped' around screw heads but invariably there is a small amount as to make sure the screw is tight